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Willow River State Park
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Mono Mercy 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch (??) Mid 2000s (??)
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: randy baum on Jul 10, 2012

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Description 

By the mid 2000s, darkness had besieged the chossy steeps of the river Willow. Like Gandalf the Grey in the Two Towers, Chris Hirsch, another gangly wizard, shone light into the abyss. Equipped only with a grigri and some Sobe iced tea, young Hirsch had the foresight -- nay, vision! -- to unearth (literally, this rig was dirty) -- another link-up at Willow, the Mono Mercy link.

Hence that fateful day, the skies at Willow have been bright (however the choss remains, the crowds are bigger, Hudson is still WT...you get the idea). And, in honor of this great achievement, no one has since -- to this author's knowledge -- had the gall to climb this visionary piece of climbing history. So, take up your staff (aka stick clips), grab some magic potions (aka a Sobe), and ride in and send.

Once attired in Gandalf robe and staff, begin on the Mono Route. At the roof that guards the chains for this route, move left and directly tackle the crux of Rejection and Mercy. Finish on Rejection and Mercy, clipping the lower chains (the top are unequalized, which is bad for your rope and for the higher anchor, which receives much more wear and tear than the lower).

Location 

Just to the right of the roof crack. Lower off the chains. If working the route, please use your own draws on the chains. This helps prolong the life of the fixed anchors.

Protection 

Draws, including at least three long draws (one for the bolt below the chains on Mono; one for the first draw you clip on Rejection; and one for the bolt below the final roof on Rejection). Kneepad is optional if you use/find any kneepads. REMEMBER: KNEEBARING IS CHEATING. I ALSO DO NOT USE STICKY RUBBER OR DYNAMIC ROPES. WARREN HARDING IS MY HOMEBOY.


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By Ryan C.
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

A little more cleaning and this will be a great climb. Much for enjoyable than just mono route.