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Vampire Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.E. 
Blood Doll 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The 
Chupacabra 
Climb-Eye-Knight 
Crack of Desperation 
Fear of Sunlight 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The 
Heart of the Narrows 
Le Stat 
Monkey's Sister 
Monkey's Uncle 
Pin Cushion 
Stage Fright 
That's Weak 
Trash It and Move On 
Vampire, The 
Wanker 

Monkey's Sister 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Baldwin & Steve Sangdahl, 2000
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 15, 2009
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This small ceiling felt like the crux of Monkey's ...
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Description 

This is a short sport pitch that is essentially a variation of Monkey's Uncle on easier terrain to the right after 6-7 bolts. It doesn't seem terribly different in difficulty compared to Monkey's Uncle. Go up blocky terrain with a high step at the 2nd bolt on clean rock. At approximately the 6th or 7th bolt, you can traverse out right. If you go from the 6th bolt, it is hard to see the next bolt. The holds to the right are well-chalked. Go up to the 9th bolt and traverse left to the anchor.


Location 

On Vampire Rock between Wanker & Transylverlina on blocky terrain. The starts for A.C.E., Monkey's Uncle, and Monkey's Sister are the same.


Protection 

9 bolts & 3 bolt anchor with resident biners, chains, and glued biners.



Photos of Monkey's Sister Slideshow Add Photo
Irina Overeem starting up Monkey's Sister.
Irina Overeem starting up Monkey's Sister.
Approaching the anchors on Monkey's Sister. These moves left are easy, but there's a hard move after that to reach the chains.
Approaching the anchors on Monkey's Sister. These ...
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