Monkeys on the Moon  5.11c

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Type:  Sport, 35 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Jim Ratz, 1993 Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mike getting aggro for Monkeys on the Moon. He wo...

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Description 

This os an OK slab route on high quality but poorly featured rock, with a brutal crux clearing the obvious bulge. There's nothing wrong with this route per se, but the holds are fairly sharp and the movement is quite awkward and unenjoyable. There are certainly many far more enjoyable routes of this grade at Sinks.

Begin easily up a detached flake, and cruise the slab to the roof. Big reaches lead over the roof to dwindling holds. Follow sharp crimps and sidepulls up the mercifully short headwall to a shared anchor with Spank the Monkey.

Location 

The Scud Pinnacle is a short tower of stone protruding from the hillside 100 feet below the Scud Wall. This route is the central of three bolted lines on the South Face of the Scud Pinnacle.

Protection 

~7 bolts, 2 BA.

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The south face of the Scud Pinnacle.