This is the first crack system right of Screw
on the Northwest face of the Valley Massif. This route consists mostly of excellent 5.8/5.9 hands with the 5.10a flare in between for added excitement. This single pitch leads to the same belay ledge as for Screw
. Heel and Toe
describes the first section of this route as moderate offwidth, but it's actually moderate hands.
The handcrack ascends from the ground about 30 feet to a horizontal crack / ledge. From the ledge, a right-leaning flare heads up past a bush where it becomes a handcrack. The flare is the crux, and Heel and Toe
describes it as hard to protect, although it is not. A #5 Camalot would protect it best, though a flaring #4 Camalot works.
Cams from 0.5" to 6.0", with doubles in the 0.75"-3.0" range. Mid-range stoppers.
Down low on Monkey Wrench.
Ethan about to get the crux!
Ethan doing Monkey Wrench with ease!
Jun 16, 2005
A very good pitch. Slammer hands up to the ledge below the flare, at which point a yellow tcu can be placed high and left. After stepping off the ledge and placing a good #4 (or maybe 4.5?) camalot, a couple of 5.10 moves gets you thru the flare and back into hand and fist sizes...