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Jungle Wall
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Burning Rubber S 
Dark Horse S 
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Grease Monkey S 
Jambalaya T 
Monkey Spunk S 
Show Pony S 
Tiger Milk S 
Yo-Yo S 

Monkey Spunk 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: T. Perkins, C. Perkinson
Page Views: 509
Submitted By: scott e. tarrant on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Fun, blocky, face climbing leads to a huge roof. Pass the huge roof with huge moves on huge holds! As Tom describes, "climb the face then over the huge roof using monkey moves".

Location 

This is the farthest right route on the Jungle Wall. This is a really great wall with tremendous views and a collection of great 5.11 & 5.12 sport routes!

Protection 

6 bolts. Rap the route. There is a chain anchor.


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By Pink Thunder
From: Aurora
Jul 8, 2013

FUN, FUN, FUN.
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2015

Unless I completely missed something, this rig is WAY harder than 11a at the 4th bolt crux. I saw no options other than a long and hard pull off a terrible sloping crimp/pinch (a hold much worse than anything on Ten Digit Dialing in CCC, which is 12c) or a 1-2ft dyno to a flat 3-finger edge. Much harder than either the crux pulls or dyno on Baba Fats, or the crux on Yabba Dabba Doo (both 11a). The rock is a bit friable in that section - did something break?

The roof was fun but very thuggy, seemed fair at 11a. About two letter grades harder than Storm Jumper, which I think is 10c, seems right.
By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Aug 3, 2015

Secret beta alert: at the 4th bolt, step right across the ledge to a no-hands stance and find the good right hand sidepull around the corner to move up and into the alcove below the roof.
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2015

Aha. I knew I must be missing something....

I'll have to give this another go.
By Parker Wrozek
Jul 20, 2016

This route is great. The roof moves while obvious are tough. I blew a block off the first attempt over the roof with my foot. I was confused, since I was all of the sudden falling. I don't think it changed the climb at all.

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