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Monkey Shoulder 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Roy Suggett, Phyllis Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: May - October
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jun 22, 2013
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Tread lightly. Seriously.

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A mixed route and one of the longest route in The Jungle. If the leader cleans the route, a 60 meter rope will just barely work; 70 meter rope is recommended. The crux is near the top of this fun forearm festival.

Start on the "monkey's shoulder" (face moves) then move through an easy chimney to a discontinuous crack that leads to a large bush where you then traverse left onto the face and through 7 more bolts on ever-steepening good rock.


At the end of the Distant Drum area and just around the corner and north of the down chute. Half way through this chute you can see the upper face of this route.


One 5, one 4, one 3, one 2, one 1, one .3, and one Metolius 00 along with 5 shoulder length runners, one four foot runner, and 5 quick draws get you to chains.

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Good loooonnnnng route
BETA PHOTO: Good loooonnnnng route
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By travis timm
From: Tropic, Utah
Jun 23, 2013

Kick ass rout. Fun, reativly easy, trad pitch followed by a super fun sport pitch on amazing rock with alot of big moves to great holds. Rout is long, sustained, and offers a little bit of everything!

By BSU_Zac
From: Cedar City, UT
Jul 7, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This a really great route. The top portion is one of the best in the jungle. Once the thrushes fledge and the route gets cleaned this will be a jungle classic. I used a BD (4, 3, 2, 1), a Metolius 0, and an assortment of shoulder lengths and QDs for the 9 bolts. Great eye roy.