Monkey Shine 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Richard Wright, September, 1999 |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on May 22, 2001 |
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At the third bolt.
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Description Monkey Shine climbs the long slab immediately to the right of The Sprawl. The slab actually defines the cut that separates The Monkey House proper from the uphill sector that has the Death Block above and Home Boy Bonanza. Run the slab up to a small roof, pull this on the right, and chase some more bolts. There is a loose block jammed into a slot at the roof. This can be pulled, perhaps, but every time I went up to do so, far too many people were below to make this a safe proposition. Yank it if you can, but the block is stable and it does not need to be pulled to enjoy the climb. There is a slightly tricky crux just before the anchor.
Protection QD only. This 95 ft route needs a 60 m rope to descend and about a dozen draws. There is a double bolt anchor at the top.
At the crux roof below the anchors.
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By MARSHALL BRITTLE
Sep 25, 2001
| THIS ROUTE HAS NO ANCHORS!!!!!!! IT CAN BE TOPPED OUT, BUT IT WAS A RUDE, RISE AND SHINE GETTING DOWN. SO YOU CRAZY KIDS BE CAREFUL!!!!! DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT HAPPENED TO THE BOLTS AT THE TOP????? |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 17, 2003
| Marshall - I only now noticed the comment about missing anchors. If they are still missing, then I can get them reinstalled. Any idea if they are indeed still missing? |
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Apr 18, 2003
| Richard, I was up there last weekend and there are two open shuts at the top of the wall.
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 19, 2003
| Thanks Guy. I'll run up here when I get a chance and see if replacement makes any sense. Sounds like it might be okay (?).
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 25, 2004
| Anchors have been replaced and the lowest bolt re-installed. Some more brushing has cleaned things up a bit. This is the third set of anchors placed here, and while MS is not a great route, it is the only warm up here and it would be nice if folks just left the gear alone. |
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10
| The new book calls this 5.9! It was hard, dirty, and not the casual warmup I was looking for. I thought Face Full of Bush was way easier than this.... |
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