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The Monkey House
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Face Full of Bush S 
Monkey Bars S 
Monkey Business S 
Monkey Pause S 
Monkey Puzzle S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 
Monkey Shine S 
New Pollution, The S 
Psycho Hose Beast S 
Punishment For Shoplifting S 
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 
Schwing Salute S 
Soap on a Rope S 

Monkey Pause 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,000
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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@ the anchor after the Monkey Puzzle variation....

Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>


This route is a 2 bolt variation to Monkey Shine (5.10d) (or vice versa. Start in a overhanging dihedral and make some fun stem moves to the apex of the roof. Make a big move to a crimp on the left, back right to a sloper, and a good crimp marks the end of the hard part.

This is a good route, if you are looking for your first 5.12 redpoint. The hard part is short and near the ground, while the rest of the route is 5.10.



Photos of Monkey Pause Slideshow Add Photo
The start, and crux, of the route.  The first two ...
BETA PHOTO: The start, and crux, of the route. The first two ...

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 6, 2003

Although the crux is low, the 5.10 roof is very fun. Huge holds and long moves keep your attention. The route after the roof is easier but I really enjoyed it. Don't psyche yourself out regarding the third clip, the climbing is easy. JM
By Andy Mauk
Dec 5, 2003

This route is the route to send your first 12 on lead. The first two clips are the crux and if you get scared there and can easliy reach them with a stick clip. After the crux grerat route!
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 5, 2003

The start to Monkey Pause is actually awkward and strange. There are a lot of 12a's in Shelf road with more straightforward moves that would make a more rewarding experience. Monkey Pause is certainly a good route, but like a lot of Alan Nelson's routes, this one needs a lot of power in the opening and the sequience through these moves is not all that easy to decipher. Pro is fine; you won't get hurt trying.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jun 4, 2011

This is NOT a variation to Monkey Shine. Rather Monkey Puzzle is a variation to this....
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