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J-Crack Slab Area
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Monkey on a String 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: [Lawrence Steumpke]
Page Views: 2,185
Submitted By: Nate Christiansen on Jan 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is right around the left arete from thinstone. This super-clean arete makes climbing thin the entire way. 2 cruxes make up the route, one being down low and one up top. Pre-clipping first bolt from thinstone is not a bad idea although that is a little tricky as well. In the picture it is the arete on the left. The bolts start on the left side and move over to the other side after 2.

Protection 

Six bolts to the nut anchor off of toot. Might need to bring some nuts just in case anchor was stolen. I made up an anchor from Stretch marks(Nov 2002) with one good nut on the left crack and a sling on a flake, but could have been taken down.


Photos of Monkey on a String Slideshow Add Photo
Nate takeing a soft belay on the string.
Nate takeing a soft belay on the string.

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By Stephan Greenway
Mar 12, 2003

FA: by Lawrence Steumpke. I remember on of the clips being extremely spooky with the potential of hitting the deck. I guess it was the third....Other then that it was a fun route.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 7, 2009

No anchor. You'll have to continue to the pin and nut on Pear Buttress.