Last pitch variation for Pioneer Route/West Face. Out of the mouth, start at the first bolt for Panic Point and trend right instead of straight up. This route ends at the summit rap anchor instead of the nose boulder.
Listed as 5.8 in Smith Rock Select and 5.9 in the new Watts book.
sport, 8 bolts
|By Adam Volwiler|
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The West Face variation linked up with this as a final pitch is the way to go. You don't have to deal with the goofy boulder at the top of the 5.7 since Monkey Off My Back ends at the top. The exposure was awesome, you feel like you are climbing on the side of some kind of floating boulder. This was the best 5.9 I had done in a long time. One 5.9ish move and the rest was pretty cake.
|By Jason Albino|
From: San Francisco, CA
May 10, 2013
Totally agree - you've probably grunted up the bolt ladder pitch to the mouth to get here, so don't cheat yourself on the best part by proceeding straight up the standard, discontinuous 5.7 line. Moving right onto this variation extends your time on the awesome exposed face, and it's really well bolted.
From: Bozeman, MT
May 27, 2014
Thought I was actually on the 5.7 pitch of the Pioneer for this line until I topped out and thought... "wait a second, wasn't there supposed to be another pitch?"
Truly amazing positioning and exposure, great holds and great movement. I can't imagine for a second that the standard Pioneer is in fact better. Do this variation if you've made it up the bolt ladder. Just do it.