Monkey Man  5.10c

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Type:  Sport, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Mike Lindsey, 1993 Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mike monkeying his way through the crux.

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Description 

This line is a good warmup and perhaps a bit easier than similarly graded routes on the Scud Wall Proper. The crux bulge can be made a bit easier by stemming to the nearby boulder. This route gets shade a bit earlier in the day than the routes on the Scud Wall. This is also the easiest way to get to the summit of the Scud Pinnacle if you don't have a rack with you (and aren't into soloing).

Begin behind a bush, balancing up a protruding spike of rock, to reach good holds on the slab. Cruise the easy slab to the bulge, and follow a diagonal rail onto monolithic stone above. Tedious liebacking up grooves gets you up the headwall to the anchor.

Location 

The Scud Pinnacle is a short tower of stone protruding from the hillside 100 feet below the Scud Wall. This route is the furthest right bolted line on the South Face of the Scud Pinnacle.

Protection 

~7 bolts, 2BA.

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The south face of the Scud Pinnacle.