Start off on the steeply overhanging (35 degree) line of jugs and pockets, cranking through relatively powerful moves on great holds. after a few bolts, the angle lessens and decent rests can be found. Though there aren't any ledges, there are a couple places where good body positioning will be rewarded with taking nearly all your weight off the forearms, which will undoubtedly be pretty pumped unless you climb 5.13. Efficient climbing, good footwork, and the ability to find rests are the secret to success on this classic line.
30 feet left of 'Geezers go Sport"
|Comments on Monkey in the Middle
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 26, 2009
This is an awesome, sustained, steep jug haul. Start on very steep wall, climb a couple of bolts worth of vertical, take your rest and climb the rest of the way up an overhanging headwall. Super fun climbing, jugs everywhere you place a hand.
|By Stefano Prezioso|
From: Detroit, MI
Mar 9, 2012
I believe this is 9 bolts, not 8.
Oct 22, 2012
Agree 9 bolts to anchors. Came up one short this weekend.
|By Jeff Edge|
Aug 18, 2013
Somebody chalked "Wasp at anchors" at the start, but I didn't find any. Although there were a few buzzing around off to the left a little bit, I guess they must've moved. Great route, technical crux seemed to be right at the start