Monkey in the Middle 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Stacy Temple, John Bronaugh - 1992 |
| Submitted By: | James Otey on Mar 25, 2008 |
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This gives you an idea of how steep the route is. ...
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Description Start off on the steeply overhanging (35 degree) line of jugs and pockets, cranking through relatively powerful moves on great holds. after a few bolts, the angle lessens and decent rests can be found. Though there aren't any ledges, there are a couple places where good body positioning will be rewarded with taking nearly all your weight off the forearms, which will undoubtedly be pretty pumped unless you climb 5.13. Efficient climbing, good footwork, and the ability to find rests are the secret to success on this classic line.
Location 30 feet left of 'Geezers go Sport"
Protection 8 Bolts
| Comments on Monkey in the Middle |
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 26, 2009
| This is an awesome, sustained, steep jug haul. Start on very steep wall, climb a couple of bolts worth of vertical, take your rest and climb the rest of the way up an overhanging headwall. Super fun climbing, jugs everywhere you place a hand. |
By Stefano Prezioso
From: Detroit, MI
Mar 9, 2012
| I believe this is 9 bolts, not 8. |
By Andrew1986
Oct 22, 2012
| Agree 9 bolts to anchors. Came up one short this weekend. |
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