Monkey in the Forest  5.11a

148 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  rob bauer on Oct 1, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Phil after Monkey-ing around.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is not my route, but since I just did at least half of it, I thought I'd put it in the database. Most of us have walked past this and thought "it looks good, we'll do it on the way down."

A mix of gear gets you to the diagonal hand to thin fingers crux above the pod. Grunt through to a so-so jam and then up to where the angle kicks back. Protect with #1 Camalots to the tree (where I rapped). The crack continues up and right toward the arete, but the CP beta photo shows it just going up the headwall. Others will have to comment whether there are anchors on top and which is the best way.

Location 

This route is #1 on the CP beta photo. The route is on the lower buttress in front of the 'Pinnacle proper; you have to walk around this to enter the alcove to start Center Route. There are two obvious cracks you'll see on this lower wall, Monkey is on the left.

Protection 

All trad: several small cams to #2 Camalot plus some stoppers. (I bailed off the tree ~75 feet; unsure whether there are anchors at top. Only had 1 rope.)