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Monkey Do 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Zac Warren
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: BSU_Zac on Jun 10, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: A view of the three climbs located near each other

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Description 

This mixed route starts in the dihedral to the right of Primate Primer. Pull through a small roof to a ledge. Continue past three bolts protecting fun moves and the crux which is an committing move to gain a stance. Ten more feet get you to chain anchors. I would have placed the anchors higher to allow about 10 more feet of moderate climbing but rock quality prevented this.


Location 

Located to the right of Primate Primer


Protection 

A rack of singles from .5-#3(BD) and doubles of #1 and #2. Stoppers could come in handy as well. Three sport draws for the bolts.



Photos of Monkey Do Slideshow Add Photo
Stemmed out pulling through the roof section
Stemmed out pulling through the roof section
Photo of myself on the FA of Monkey Do
Photo of myself on the FA of Monkey Do
The three bolts were all drilled on lead
The three bolts were all drilled on lead
Comments on Monkey Do Add Comment
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By Roy Suggett
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Hard man ground-up route! Everybody should like this!

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great stemming problem with quite a bit of funk to get out of the corner. I'd skip on the doubles but bring small cams (green C3/blue alien).

Mad props to Zac for pulling that last moves with a micronut in the chip as his last piece of pro, that must have been exciting. Great route, FA in impressive style. Classy. More please.