Monkey Do 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, Alpine, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Zac Warren |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | BSU_Zac on Jun 10, 2012 |
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Photo of myself on the FA of Monkey Do
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Description This mixed route starts in the dihedral to the right of Primate Primer. Pull through a small roof to a ledge. Continue past three bolts protecting fun moves and the crux which is an committing move to gain a stance. Ten more feet get you to chain anchors. I would have placed the anchors higher to allow about 10 more feet of moderate climbing but rock quality prevented this.
Location Located to the right of Primate Primer
Protection A rack of singles from .5-#3(BD) and doubles of #1 and #2. Stoppers could come in handy as well. Three sport draws for the bolts.
BETA PHOTO: A view of the three climbs located near each other
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Stemmed out pulling through the roof section
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The three bolts were all drilled on lead
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By Roy Suggett
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| Hard man ground-up route! Everybody should like this! |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| Great stemming problem with quite a bit of funk to get out of the corner. I'd skip on the doubles but bring small cams (green C3/blue alien).
Mad props to Zac for pulling that last moves with a micronut in the chip as his last piece of pro, that must have been exciting. Great route, FA in impressive style. Classy. More please. |
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