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This mixed route starts in the dihedral to the right of Primate Primer. Pull through a small roof to a ledge. Continue past three bolts protecting fun moves and the crux which is an committing move to gain a stance. Ten more feet get you to chain anchors. I would have placed the anchors higher to allow about 10 more feet of moderate climbing but rock quality prevented this.
Located to the right of Primate Primer
A rack of singles from .5-#3(BD) and doubles of #1 and #2. Stoppers could come in handy as well. Three sport draws for the bolts.
BETA PHOTO: A view of the three climbs located near each other
Stemmed out pulling through the roof section
The three bolts were all drilled on lead
|By Roy Suggett|
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Hard man ground-up route! Everybody should like this!
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Great stemming problem with quite a bit of funk to get out of the corner. I'd skip on the doubles but bring small cams (green C3/blue alien).
Mad props to Zac for pulling that last moves with a micronut in the chip as his last piece of pro, that must have been exciting. Great route, FA in impressive style. Classy. More please.