Monkey Business 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Richard M. Wright, September, 1999 |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on May 22, 2001 |
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Description Monkey Business begins just where the wash that forms the base of the Monkey House starts to steepen up to the chockstone. About 70 ft below the huge chock stone that fills the wash, Monkey Business starts up the slab about 10 ft left of Monkey Puzzle. Run up the slab at 5.9 climbing on great Clear Creek stone, pass an awkward fin, and waltz on up to gain a flat ledge below the looming roof system above. You could, in principle, walk off here. However, Monkey Business delivers the business by surmounting an awkward block with a long stem to gain a difficult bulge with a key, and I must say natural, pocket. Awkward and reachy moves left and above the pocket leads to a thin seam with virtually no feet. Still not over yet, the finish on Monkey Business has been done (improperly) on the right and more user friendly on the left. A long reach left into a right facing corner will deliver a fine clipping stance, but the feet are still padding about for some friction on a holdless face. Two stars for the fine Clear Creek stone, good climbing moves, and the intricate sequence through the block at the top.
Protection QD only. This 100 ft route needs 14 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. Bring a 60 m rope for descent.
| Comments on Monkey Business |
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By Doug Redosh
From: golden, CO
Oct 22, 2003
| the face climbing past the first 2 bolts is more like 5.10 |
By Tod Anderson
Oct 23, 2003
| A couple of dangerous loose blocks were removed just before the big ledge, one was about 18 inches below bolt # 6. So now the route is a bit safer. A bolt drilled into a roof in the upper part of the route appears to be drilled into a fractured block. The FA party may have more reassuring beta on this, otherwise don't fall until you get to the next both that's only a short distance away. |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 23, 2003
| I didn't think the bolts were suspicious, however, since I was afraid of the potential for hitting soft stone (this is Clear Creek afterall), most of the bolts are four inches long. |
By Tod Anderson
Oct 24, 2003
| All the bolts looked fine except for the one mentioned previously. The one in question was drilled directly up into a small roof near the top of the route, and I noticed a fracture line in the rock a few inches beheind the bolt. This one may be suspect. It is possible that this particular piece of rock sounded OK when tapped with a hammer initially and may, in fact be OK. It may be worth checking out at some point in the future, though. |
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