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Delicacy Wall
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Monkey Brain Stew S 
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Truffle Shuffle S 

Monkey Brain Stew 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chef Cronin
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall. Rarely sees sun.
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Jun 10, 2013

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Good stuff, Maynard!

A Sick, Twisted, Delectably-Diabolical, Limestone Treat! 

All killer, no filler! This route is stoopid steep with huge, honkin' holds! Atypical for Spearfish Canyon and gives a small taste of what you would encounter at Victoria Canyon.

GET ON THIS THING! GET PSYCHED! GET PUMPED AND GET IN SHAPE, GIRL!

Use your abs! Lose your love-handles! Lose your lunch! This is the 12a that all 12a climbers have been training for!


Location 

Located on a blonde prow just to the right of a flake-filled crack. 5th route from the left-hand side of The Delicacy Wall.


Protection 

Six bolts and open anchors. Stick clipping the third bolt is possible. (Probably not needed.) This practice is recommended for those who are new to Spearfish Canyon 5.12 climbing. Stick clipping the third bolt is nice because it allows you to sail through a bottom crux without having to worry about fumbling that clip.



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By Mikel Cronin
Jun 11, 2013

Why does the 3rd need to be stick clipped? I recall it being a little stressful to clip but reasonable.

By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
Jun 12, 2013

You don't need to stick clip the third bolt if you are already awesome. But it's not a bad idea to do so if your not too accomplished at 5.12 climbing yet or if you've never done the route before.

By Mikel Cronin
Jun 13, 2013

I'm all for stick clipping for safety but when your clipping up half the route that's a little extreme. Have a good belayer and don't fumble the clip. I don't know one person, awesome or not who has decked from there.