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Monkey and the Engineer 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80s
Page Views: 1,438
Submitted By: tharlow on May 31, 2007

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Look for a left-angling crack that ends in a black corner.

P1. 1st pitch start up this crack, 5.11 option is to climb into corner and through roof. Easier option is to trend right on discontinuous cracks until you can make a traverse back to the crack system above the roof. Set up a belay here on a sloping stance. 5.7.

P2. 2nd pitch begins with a hand traverse with good hands behind a flake. Turn the corner with thin hands and into a dirty crack and climb this to the spacious ledge. 5.8.

P3. 3rd pitch climbs the steep, crack system/shallow corner to the left of the black streaks on the wall. The pro is good, can be hard to find. 2 options to end the pitch: left on some manky, odd-looking rock, or up and right to the alcove with a bush with one difficult move pulling into the alcove. 5.10-.

P4. 4th pitch, short offwidth, then mostly thin to hand-sized crack, trending left and aiming for squeeze chimney. Make awkward offwidth move into short, squeeze chimney that is hard to protect, then 4th class to the ledge beneath the summit block. 5.7.

Walk off around and behind the final summit block and thrash up the choked gully.


Descend Cruise Gully, after 2nd rappel, watch for faint trail on the left. Route begins just left of Maiden Voyage as a left-angling crack that ends in dark corner.


Set of nuts, 2 sets of cams with a #4 Camalot useful to protect offwidth at beginning of pitch 4. Several runners.

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By phil broscovak
Jun 16, 2007

F.A. Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80's.
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought the route looked less than inspiring from the ground...but p1 and p4 are quite fun. P4 protects well despite its appearance.
By 303scott
Oct 3, 2016

Here's a little more detail on location and pitches. The start is about about 15 feet left of Maiden Voyage.

P1. Locate a short, left-angling seam/crack and climb that for about 20-30 feet. Cut right before the big corner starts until you are basically above the start of Maiden Voyage. Continue up the crack for 15 feet, and then angle left back towards the apex of the .11 variation roof on an easy traverse. Take an extremely thin flake up and left to join the .11 variation above the roof, step left, and belay.

P2. Move up a few feet from the belay and then directly left on a decent flake (fixed stopper) to the corner. Turn the corner and follow the easy crack up to a dirty big ledge (20-30 feet). Step right into a dirty (and if it rained recently, muddy and mossy) crack and climb that through (or around) the bush at the top to another big ledge. Move up and slightly right to the base of the crux pitch (the obvious weakness left of black streaks).

P3. Climb the crux pitch more or less straight up to an alcove and belay (125 feet?).

P4. Continue straight up to an easy offwidth above and the walkoff ledge. Pro is hard for an anchor here, I slung a large boulder on climber's left.

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