Monkey and the Engineer  5.10-

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80s Submitted By:  tharlow on May 31, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Look for a left-angling crack that ends in a black corner.

P1. 1st pitch start up this crack, 5.11 option is to climb into corner and through roof. Easier option is to trend right on discontinuous cracks until you can make a traverse back to the crack system above the roof. Set up a belay here on a sloping stance. 5.7.

P2. 2nd pitch begins with a hand traverse with good hands behind a flake. Turn the corner with thin hands and into a dirty crack and climb this to the spacious ledge. 5.8.

P3. 3rd pitch climbs the steep, crack system/shallow corner to the left of the black streaks on the wall. The pro is good, can be hard to find. 2 options to end the pitch: left on some manky, odd-looking rock, or up and right to the alcove with a bush with one difficult move pulling into the alcove. 5.10-.

P4. 4th pitch, short offwidth, then mostly thin to hand-sized crack, trending left and aiming for squeeze chimney. Make awkward offwidth move into short, squeeze chimney that is hard to protect, then 4th class to the ledge beneath the summit block. 5.7.

Walk off around and behind the final summit block and thrash up the choked gully.

Location 

Descend Cruise Gully, after 2nd rappel, watch for faint trail on the left. Route begins just left of Maiden Voyage as a left-angling crack that ends in dark corner.

Protection 

Set of nuts, 2 sets of cams with a #4 Camalot useful to protect offwidth at beginning of pitch 4. Several runners.