Monkey and the Engineer
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Look for a left-angling crack that ends in a black corner.
P1. 1st pitch start up this crack, 5.11 option is to climb into corner and through roof. Easier option is to trend right on discontinuous cracks until you can make a traverse back to the crack system above the roof. Set up a belay here on a sloping stance. 5.7.
P2. 2nd pitch begins with a hand traverse with good hands behind a flake. Turn the corner with thin hands and into a dirty crack and climb this to the spacious ledge. 5.8.
P3. 3rd pitch climbs the steep, crack system/shallow corner to the left of the black streaks on the wall. The pro is good, can be hard to find. 2 options to end the pitch: left on some manky, odd-looking rock, or up and right to the alcove with a bush with one difficult move pulling into the alcove. 5.10-.
P4. 4th pitch, short offwidth, then mostly thin to hand-sized crack, trending left and aiming for squeeze chimney. Make awkward offwidth move into short, squeeze chimney that is hard to protect, then 4th class to the ledge beneath the summit block. 5.7.
Walk off around and behind the final summit block and thrash up the choked gully.
Descend Cruise Gully, after 2nd rappel, watch for faint trail on the left. Route begins just left of Maiden Voyage as a left-angling crack that ends in dark corner.
Set of nuts, 2 sets of cams with a #4 Camalot useful to protect offwidth at beginning of pitch 4. Several runners.
|Comments on Monkey and the Engineer
|By phil broscovak|
From: Boo-older, Co.
Jun 16, 2007
F.A. Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80's.
|By Eric and Lucie|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I thought the route looked less than inspiring from the ground....
But p1 and p4 are quite fun. P4 protects well despite its appearance.