Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Checkerboard Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Checkerboard Wall T 
King Me T 
Maiden Voyage aka The Red Dihedral, The T 
Monkey and the Engineer T 
Ouiji Board T 

Monkey and the Engineer 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80s
Page Views: 1,336
Submitted By: tharlow on May 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Look for a left-angling crack that ends in a black corner.

P1. 1st pitch start up this crack, 5.11 option is to climb into corner and through roof. Easier option is to trend right on discontinuous cracks until you can make a traverse back to the crack system above the roof. Set up a belay here on a sloping stance. 5.7.

P2. 2nd pitch begins with a hand traverse with good hands behind a flake. Turn the corner with thin hands and into a dirty crack and climb this to the spacious ledge. 5.8.

P3. 3rd pitch climbs the steep, crack system/shallow corner to the left of the black streaks on the wall. The pro is good, can be hard to find. 2 options to end the pitch: left on some manky, odd-looking rock, or up and right to the alcove with a bush with one difficult move pulling into the alcove. 5.10-.

P4. 4th pitch, short offwidth, then mostly thin to hand-sized crack, trending left and aiming for squeeze chimney. Make awkward offwidth move into short, squeeze chimney that is hard to protect, then 4th class to the ledge beneath the summit block. 5.7.

Walk off around and behind the final summit block and thrash up the choked gully.


Descend Cruise Gully, after 2nd rappel, watch for faint trail on the left. Route begins just left of Maiden Voyage as a left-angling crack that ends in dark corner.


Set of nuts, 2 sets of cams with a #4 Camalot useful to protect offwidth at beginning of pitch 4. Several runners.

Comments on Monkey and the Engineer Add Comment
Show which comments
By phil broscovak
Jun 16, 2007

F.A. Bob Robertson & Dave Henritze, early '80's.
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought the route looked less than inspiring from the ground....
But p1 and p4 are quite fun. P4 protects well despite its appearance.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!