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Deep Creek
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Mongo Fury 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: Blake Cash on May 18, 2012
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Description 

Another 12+ at Deep Creek?!?! Yep.

This one differs a bit from the others in that the 12d is all in the first half of the route. Start out by climbing up into a corner and gaining a flat horizontal, traversing back out above the first bolt. Do a funky move to gain the next horizontal at the 2nd and traverse out left towards the lip of the roof. Clip a bolt out the roof and execute the crux either using to edges under the roof making a large deadpoint to a very sloping rail or moving a bit left and doing harder but higher percentage moves. The crux isn't over yet...make some sequential moves through a crack feature moving up and right towards an obvious ledge. Rest, take your hands off, and then climb a 12- from here to the top. Great route only marred by the no hands after the hard climbing. Amazing rock.


Location 

Located in between Nugs and Feast of Fools. Has cleaning quick link at the 3rd bolt in the roof.


Protection 

Bolts to a bolt anchor



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