located far left on Broken Tooth. almost always shady. steep fingers,wide fingers goes into a slightly leaning, endless fist/rattly fist splitter. hard to see the anchors (which should probably be renovated).
(1ea.)#1 friend,.5,.75,1,2 camalot,(2ea.)#3,3.5 friends,(6-8)#4 friends. you can supplement with a few #4 camalots if #4 friends are in short supply.
some thug climbing ... Mondo THUG
Aug 24, 2012
not a crack climber but this looks like a lot of fun... maybe ill make this my first crack climb
|By Josh Ewing|
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I hate to play the "hard size for my hand size" card, but this one felt ridiculously hard...much harder than at least three 5.13s at the Creek (Tricks, Optimator, Ruby's). I guess this is penance for all those thin hands cracks, which don't seem that hard. The crux move over the low roof seems just on the edge of possible, with the right-hand jam too rattly to really help. And the last 60 feet of new 4 camalots are just beyond rattly fists...requiring a lot of stacking with bad feet. One of the most aesthetic and challenging lines I've done anywhere.
Agreed that the anchor could use "modernization." I'll take the drill/bolts the next time I'm up there. But if someone beats me to it, let me know.
|By John Collis|
May 15, 2014
Truly great route—I agree that the anchor could probably use a little bit of updating. The left bolt is a spinning SMC buttonhead with an old sun-bleached piece of cord equalizing it with the right, which is the original Hong bolt with his initials on the hanger. If anyone does go to replace it, it would be pretty cool to try and leave the initialed, home-made Hong bolt, just for the sake of historical significance. Maybe just replace the SMC and add a third.