|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Yvon Chouinard and others.|
|Submitted By:||Blitzo on May 9, 2007|
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|Comments on Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack||Add Comment|
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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blitzo - isn't this a variation of the SECOND pitch of Harry Daley?
At the top of the first pitch of Harry Daley, but before the dead tree belay below the roof, belay at a small live tree and go left to a 2" splitter going straight up, go left at its top, including a hand traverse on smears, then up a wider crack to finish on the arete on the left. It's easy to follow this arete to the anchors at the top of the second pitch of Harry Daley and rap from there.
Approach info here.
By Stefano Prezioso
From: Denver, CO
Jun 1, 2012
|At the end of the last good crack, before climbing into the left side of the Monday Morning Slab to easier terrain, there is a bush under a boulder with slings and rap rings on it, allowing you to rap back down without having to finish on less than desirable terrain. Bring your own webbing to supplement if the slings are too ratty, but as of May 31, 2012, they seemed acceptable to me. You can also throw some draws around the slings and toprope the climb as well. I think the cracks on this were even better than Harry Daley.|
By Rodger Raubach
May 25, 2013
|Chris is correct, this indeed is the second pitch variation. The 5.8 first pitch is fun, and this 5.6 variation is a good alternative to the HD route normal finish.|