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Glacier Point Apron
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Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Yvon Chouinard and others.
Page Views: 2,411
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 9, 2007
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  • Description 

    This is a variation of the first pitch of the "Harry Daley Route".
    Climb a crack that goes up then curves left, 40' left of "Harry Daley".
    Either rap or continue up the second pitch of "Harry Daley".

    There has been considerable rockfall in this area over the past several years.


    Protection 

    Pro to 1".



    Photos of Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Richard Large, screwing around on "Chouinard Crack", 1975. <br />The trees above are now gone. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
    Richard Large, screwing around on "Chouinard Crack...
    Dustin Webinger Following Bildo
    Dustin Webinger Following Bildo
    Doug Odenthal following on the Chouinard Crack. Somewhere around 1983.
    Doug Odenthal following on the Chouinard Crack. So...
    Comments on Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack Add Comment
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    By Chris Owen
    Administrator
    From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
    Sep 20, 2009
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    Blitzo - isn't this a variation of the SECOND pitch of Harry Daley?

    At the top of the first pitch of Harry Daley, but before the dead tree belay below the roof, belay at a small live tree and go left to a 2" splitter going straight up, go left at its top, including a hand traverse on smears, then up a wider crack to finish on the arete on the left. It's easy to follow this arete to the anchors at the top of the second pitch of Harry Daley and rap from there.

    Approach info here.

    By Stefano Prezioso
    From: Detroit, MI
    Jun 1, 2012

    At the end of the last good crack, before climbing into the left side of the Monday Morning Slab to easier terrain, there is a bush under a boulder with slings and rap rings on it, allowing you to rap back down without having to finish on less than desirable terrain. Bring your own webbing to supplement if the slings are too ratty, but as of May 31, 2012, they seemed acceptable to me. You can also throw some draws around the slings and toprope the climb as well. I think the cracks on this were even better than Harry Daley.

    By Rodger Raubach
    May 25, 2013

    Chris is correct, this indeed is the second pitch variation. The 5.8 first pitch is fun, and this 5.6 variation is a good alternative to the HD route normal finish.