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Unknown [Outer Gates] 

Monastic Groove 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,400
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2003
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"Monastic Groove".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Monastic Groove is one of the best routes at the Outer Gates. It features refreshingly different holds than many of its neighboring 5.7/5.8s which tend to be very similar to each other.

This is the center most route in the Vestry, just downhill from the thin spire called the Steeple. Squeeze behind a detached boulder and start the route at its top. Climb up a fun water groove to a bulge with the biggest jugs that you will ever see. Pull through this, and continue for a few more bolts to a anchor set in an alcove about 70' up.


Protection 

8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor with chains at the top.



Photos of Monastic Groove Slideshow Add Photo
James Burns getting ready to rappel after cleaning Monastic Groove.
James Burns getting ready to rappel after cleaning...
Albert Kettner on the flared crack near the top of Monastic Groove.
Albert Kettner on the flared crack near the top of...
Getting ready for the "roof" move on Monastic Groove.
Getting ready for the "roof" move on Monastic Groo...
Monastic Groove.  Fun stemming up the initial groove, an overhang with jugs, and a flared crack at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Monastic Groove. Fun stemming up the initial groo...
Climber on "Monastic Groove". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Climber on "Monastic Groove".
Photo by Blitzo.
Luke in the groove.
Luke in the groove.
Brent cruising up Monastic Groove.
Brent cruising up Monastic Groove.
Stepping through the overhang. <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
Stepping through the overhang.

Photo by Luke Clar...
Past the "roof" on Monastic Groove. One of my favorite routes at the Outer Gates.
Past the "roof" on Monastic Groove. One of my favo...
Comments on Monastic Groove Add Comment
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By PATRICK THOMPSON
Jul 17, 2002

This route was put up by Pat and Azenda Thompson and Rick and Jana Thompson. The route just to the left of Monastic goes at about 10b and it was put up by Mark Brantely and Pat Thompson. It is called Southern Hospitality.

By PATRICK THOMPSON
Jul 19, 2002

Just a quick note to clarify route information. Monastic Groove is the right hand route that starts off the ledge, goes to the bulge, and up the crack. The route to the left that starts off the same ledge and climbs up the face is called Southern Hospitality.

By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jul 19, 2002

Nice routes, Patrick, I had fun climbing them. Thanks for adding the additional info!

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 3, 2003

I think I counted eight bolts on the route -- four below the break/overhang, and four after. In any case, it has a nice mix of stemming and pebble-pinching.

By Jason Shatek
Jul 28, 2005

This is the best route I've done at [The Monastary]! [The] climbing is just 5 fun. The bolts are well placed and the moves are fun!

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 3, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

FWIW, this climb felt closer to 5.7, especially in comparison to The Steeple, No Mystery Here, Crucifix, Abbot Arete. As a result, it's probably a better warm up than those...especially The Steeple...especially if it is cold. Fun.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 9, 2011

I've seen bigger jugs.

By Geissler Golding
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Great line, super fun route, well worth doing on any visit. Bolted just right to make you 'climb' the last +20ft, well done.

By Canon
Aug 28, 2012

Decent route, fairly cruiser but nothing special. I think it was 8 bolts to the alcove.