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 ADVANCED
Horse Rampart
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AAA TR 
Archery TR 
Between the Cheeks TR 
Debauchery TR 
Horse with No Name T,TR 
Horse, The T,TR 
Lechery T,TR 
Moby Dick T,TR 
Monarch T,TR 
Mother Smucker's Jam T,TR 
Mung T 
Peanut Butter T,TR 
Plethora T 
Primak's Surprise T,TR 
Pullman Car T,TR 
Roger's Roof T,TR 
Scavenger of Sorrow T,TR 
Scuz TR 
Sugar-free Jam T,TR 
Teetering Tower TR 
Teetering Tower Chimney T,TR 
Treachery T,TR 
Via Apia T,TR 
Woger's Woof Wightside TR 
Wolf Dog T,TR 

Monarch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Monarch (4), The Horse (5), and Pullman Car (6)

Description 

Monarch is located near the inside corner/gully on the northwest-facing wall near the middle of the Horse Rampart formation. Start left of the big tree and climb up slab to the steeper wall above. Make your way into a shallow inside corner and follow it to a crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Comments on Monarch Add Comment
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 2, 2008

A very chossy, awkward climb. One 5.9 move through the roof and it's over.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 29, 2011

I don't think I understand the rules for this route. I can make it either a hard 5.10 or a 5.8, depending on which holds I decide are on. What I don't find is a 5.9 - do I just not see it?

This route was once called "Nutscratcher" (S&Z 1970).
By Jeff Christbaum
From: Muskego, WI
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We did this route today because it was there and we were too lazy to move the rope after climbing the Horse. Both of us actually liked it a lot more than everybody else. No problems at all with rock quality. The bottom slab went well and we pushed through the crack at the top. We weren't sure which of the two vertical crack lines to go for, so I went straight up over a small roof.