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Feudal Wall (Left Side)
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Monaco 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Yvonne MacPherson, Mark Maynard & Todd Gordon, April 1989
Page Views: 2,188
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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whipping off monaco!
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Description 

This fun route climbs a slab to slightly overhung face past 5 bolts to anchors although originally done with only 4 bolts, which made the crux more thrilling. Years later (late 1990's) the FA party added the topmost bolt to make the climb better protected and more accessible for all. It is a little runout at the start and the rating might even be a little sandbag, but hey you're at Josh -- what did you expect?


Location 

Just right of Duchess Right.


Protection 

5 bolts to anchors (3/8")



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Climber on Monaco <br /> <br />photo by bob gaines
Climber on Monaco

photo by bob gaines
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 15, 2004

I thought this route was really fun. So difficult to grade because the crux involves levitation techniques. Getting to first bolt has just the right amount of pucker factor!!

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 24, 2004

Tan Slacks and I did this route a little while back. It has some really cool moves, and the last few moves keep your heart pumping.

By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 24, 2004

Definitely one of the best in the immediate vicinity. Three stars out of five.

By Josh Beck
Nov 28, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I agree this route is on the harder side of 5.11b for me. Fun though and one of the better routes I've done in Indian Cove as well.

By Thatcher Clay
Feb 21, 2012

Great route- the first bolt is high but easily protectable with a .5 in the first horizontal. Top crux section is thin, but with good bolt placements. Great route to try on lead- you can always run up the awesome 5.10 next to it to retrieve gear if you bail.

By Bob Gaines
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The first ascent was done in April 1989, ground up, with hooks and a power drill (back in the day when it was legal to use a power drill).

There was a group of Marines training on the Feudal Wall that day and two of them had to be EVACed via ambulance after leader falls.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Don't fall before the first bolt. Your piece in the first horizontal will not protect you from a ground fall if you fall while clipping the first bolt, IMO. It would be close... I didn't test it. The climbing is not difficult after the horizontal, but I definitely had the pucker factor going on. I placed a black alien in the horizontal (only brought small stuff) and was not stoked on it. I slung it out of habbit and with the catch point dropped below the piece, I am pretty certain I would have decked. A blue or green alien would have fit much better. That being said, "don't fall before first high bolt" climbs always warrant some serious safety rating when the bolt is 20 feet up.