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MoMo Buttress 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Heather Moroso, EFR
Page Views: 1,737
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Sara Hayes on the upper section of MoMo Buttress.

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    10 feet of 5.6 bouldering gets you to the belay ledge. A little funky at the bottom getting to the first bolt. About 20 feet of traversing right leads to some fantastic airy face climbing.

    Location 

    Approach the same as If You Bolt It They Will Come. Start from the ledge 10 feet above and behind the start of If You Bolt It... Climb up then traverse right following bolts to skyline covered with quartz crystal knobs. If you go to the summit three single rope raps. If you do the one pitch it takes two raps. The second rap from the summit involves a swing to the right to the anchors next to the chimney. From this rap you can make it to the ledge without stopping at the belay ledge.

    Protection 

    Bolts


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    Comments on MoMo Buttress Add Comment
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    By Christian
    From: Casa do Cacete
    Jul 19, 2008

    Don't be a dumb-ass like me and start up "Ravenous" (with just quickdraws) by mistake.

    Mo-Mo starts another 5 or 6 feet climber's right of the cold shut anchor on the ledge.
    By JT Daiker
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 25, 2008

    was that hold that broke off part of a gear placement on 'ravenous?' whatever it was, it ain't no more.
    By Christian
    From: Casa do Cacete
    Jul 25, 2008

    I'm pretty sure I pulled off part of the "pocket for nut" shown on the "Ravenous" topo in the book.

    This may have to be updated to "pocket for tricam" in the next version of the book hehe