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Chicken Wall
Routes Sorted
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Alfa Chick S 
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Wessel in the Chicken Coop S 

Mommy Blocker 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, August, 1999
Page Views: 1,154
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

This is located on 'The Chicken Wall' of the 'Clock Tower'. It is the 2nd route from the right of the old industrial bolts. It is a little squeezed with "Wessel In the Chicken Coop". Be careful clipping the first bolt, as there may be bat shit/piss all around. From here, continue up the arete/corner to the anchors. This is a short route but nonetheless a decent route for the intermediate leader. As mentioned, a little squeezed with the route directly right, as you could clip these bolts as well. Enjoy.

Protection 

5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on Mommy Blocker Add Comment
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 7, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Err.. 5.8 perhaps?
By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2009

It felt like a 5.10a to me, but this was right after working a few other problems on the wall, so it was probably fatigue kicking in. Fun route to climb though!
By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Weird route, not really worth the effort it took to put in the bolts. Still, there were a few good moves and a couple of finger jams. A little zig-zaggy, pretty tough to follow the bolt line. A tad harder than the line to the right, but honestly, it didn't feel like 5.10 to me.
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2012

Maybe I did it wrong, but the crux on the bolt line is not 5.10. Both my partner and I wouldn't do it on lead. Instead we traversed right, practically getting onto the Weasel next door as we went around.

Overall, too short, do it if you're stuck waiting for something else.