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Thunder Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backlash S 
Beast in Me, The T 
Concertina S 
Gun Club S 
Let's Make A Deal S 
Loud Noise S 
Momma's Squeeze Box T 
Mushrooms T 
Right Son of Thunder T 
Screamer Crack T 
Super Crack T 
Transcendence S 

Momma's Squeeze Box 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Bill Newman 1981
Page Views: 1,331
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: route photo


This route is a great intro for offwidth climbing. Climb the squeeze chimney to the top. It can be a bit dirty inside, but this does not really affect the climbing. About 20 Ft. below the top, there are several variations to the finish as the crack split to the right or straight up. Straight up appears to be the easiest finish, with very large gear for protection. The right crack can be made more difficult by exiting the chimney at the first opportunity(G gear).


Start at the base of the obvious wide chimney on a platform. This is just to the left of Concertina.


This takes on a PG rating unless big bros are used. Most of the chimney can be very adequately protected with small nuts and cams.

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