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 ADVANCED
Thunder Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backlash S 
Concertina S 
Gun Club S 
Let's Make A Deal S 
Loud Noise S 
Momma's Squeeze Box T 
Mushrooms T 
Right Son of Thunder T 
Screamer Crack T 
Super Crack T 
Transcendence S 

Momma's Squeeze Box 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,014
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: route photo

Description 

This route is a great intro for offwidth climbing. Climb the squeeze chimney to the top. It can be a bit dirty inside, but this does not really affect the climbing. About 20 Ft. below the top, there are several variations to the finish as the crack split to the right or straight up. Straight up appears to be the easiest finish, with very large gear for protection. The right crack can be made more difficult by exiting the chimney at the first opportunity(G gear).

Location 

Start at the base of the obvious wide chimney on a platform. This is just to the left of Concertina.

Protection 

This takes on a PG rating unless big bros are used. Most of the chimney can be very adequately protected with small nuts and cams.


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