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Working out the moves on Momma's Boy
With powerful moves and a technical crux, this route is full-on from the first move. After the first two bolts, follow the good holds left to the third bolt and into the direct line. Milk the rest if you can find it; youíll need to have some power left after the crux to hit the huge quartz-crystal jug!
Note: There is one off-route bolt that was used to equip the start of the route. Donít bother trying to clip it, it wonít help. Move left to the third bolt instead.
History: After getting beaten down by the direct start (now an open project) I made the FA of this gorgeous line on my 24th birthday, the day after Mother's Day, 2009.
Nearing the last bolt of Momma's Boy