“Ongoing Decay” might be a better name for this route. It’s actually pretty fun with good, pumpy, desperate moves, but the choss just rains from it.
A surprisingly difficult start on thin holds with a concentration-focusing 3rd clip. Thereafter, the overhanging pumpiness starts with big moves from tiny holds, tiny-to-nonexistent feet, strenuous body positioning, and a few welcome jugs to see you through.
From the penultimate bolt onward the needle on the choss-o-meter pegs and the climbing becomes a bit nerve-wracking as you wonder whether everything you touch is going to fall off.
Right of the “cave”; first bolted line on the right, ignoring Oscar the Grouch which is quite a bit farther right.
6 bolts, chain anchors.
From: centerville, utah
Nov 25, 2009
Belayers should wear a helmut on this choss fest. I just about got my head taken off when a large rock came off. Missed me by 4 feet and my helmut is at Petzl being fixed! This route looked tough with some real twister movement. And one other thing, you do get a big rest on it after the real desperate part...