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Bad Bananas
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Moment of Decay 
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When You’re Feeling Sinister 

Moment of Decay 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 25, 2009
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Description 

“Ongoing Decay” might be a better name for this route. It’s actually pretty fun with good, pumpy, desperate moves, but the choss just rains from it.

A surprisingly difficult start on thin holds with a concentration-focusing 3rd clip. Thereafter, the overhanging pumpiness starts with big moves from tiny holds, tiny-to-nonexistent feet, strenuous body positioning, and a few welcome jugs to see you through.

From the penultimate bolt onward the needle on the choss-o-meter pegs and the climbing becomes a bit nerve-wracking as you wonder whether everything you touch is going to fall off.


Location 

Right of the “cave”; first bolted line on the right, ignoring Oscar the Grouch which is quite a bit farther right.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors.



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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 25, 2009

Of the three 5.11d lines to the right of the cave (Rainbird, When You’re Feeling Sinister, and this) I thought this was by far the most difficult.

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 25, 2009

Belayers should wear a helmut on this choss fest. I just about got my head taken off when a large rock came off. Missed me by 4 feet and my helmut is at Petzl being fixed! This route looked tough with some real twister movement. And one other thing, you do get a big rest on it after the real desperate part...