Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Cathedral Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball Hog 
Devil Made Me Dog It, The S 
Grandmother's Challenge S 
Molson's Madness S 
Pin Snatcher 
Sanctuary S 

Molson's Madness 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Dunn, 1977
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: john strand on Mar 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
March 1989. Ben taking a rest while aid cleaning M...

Description 

I think the crux is about 3/4 of the way across though it is pretty sustained. Originally done with pins, they were stolen AT LEAST 3 times. Now bolted. Kinda strenno but probably the easiest route in the cave.

Location 

Right side of the cave- up and left baby !

Protection 

bolts, fixed anchor


Photos of Molson's Madness Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Molson's Madness back in October 1988. It's the cl...
Molson's Madness back in October 1988. It's the cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Molson's Madness bolts in March 1989. The bela...
The Molson's Madness bolts in March 1989. The bela...
Rock Climbing Photo: A photo of the route.
BETA PHOTO: A photo of the route.

Comments on Molson's Madness Add Comment
Show which comments
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

5 bolts 2 pins. Crux is between 4-5 bolts. The roof seeps after a few days of sustained rain and soaks bolts 3-5. Also makes for a good intro bolt ladder for aspiring aid climbers. It's a good alternative to the first pitch of Cathedral direct. From the pin anchor there are a couple rivets that lead to the cathedral direct crack system out the roof.
By Steve Moulding
From: New York
Aug 19, 2015

Has anyone been out the Cathedral Direct roof in recent years? Back in the day I wanted to do it but never did. Have never seen anyone on it either. Looks like a good adventure!
By Dodge
May 22, 2016

The second pin is gone, broke in half when my partner was practicing some basic aid skills. Sent him for a pretty good whip, be careful through the easier ground to the anchor now as it is a bit runout. Wouldn't mind seeing a bolt replace the the pin that still remains, given the ethics of the cave and the very real possibility of a grounder if it blew from a fall at the wrong place. Overall was surprised by the quality of the route, very fun and sustained with the crux (in my opinion) coming between the last two bolts.
Rock Climbing Photo: What was the second pin.
What was the second pin.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!