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Mokule'ia Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sicker Red Slick S 
All It’s Cracked Up to Be S 
All Pigs are Created Equal S 
Ambulance Driver T,S 
Beat the Burn S 
Black Tower S 
Blankety Blank S 
Bug Walk  S 
Burnt Offerings S 
Cactus Arete TR 
Cactus Garden S 
Chunky Monkey  T 
Confusion S 
Copper Dragon S 
Devils Triangle S 
Double Dragon S 
Dr. Hook  S 
Dragon Slayer S 
Dragon's Breath S 
Dragon's Fire  S 
Dragon's Spine S 
Easy Rider S 
Einstein's Bike  S 
Eureka  S 
Face Over Crack T 
Face The Music S 
Fission  S 
Flower Tower  S 
Flower Tower (Variation) TR 
Funky Monkey T,S 
Fusion  S 
God Machine, The TR 
Guillotine  S 
Immortal's Path  S 
Insecticide  S 
Mid-Level Provider Hook S,TR 
Mission Impossible TR 
Mission Nearly Impossible S 
New Year's Crack  T 
Nurse Hook  S 
Pig Tree S 
Rainy Wish  S 
Red Tower of Pain TR 
Rocky Road  T,S 
S-Crack  T 
Shark Fin , The S 
Silver Dragon S 
Sissy Blaster S 
Slice of Death S 
Smokestack T 
Spice of Life S 
Submarine Driver TR 
They Will Eat Cake T 
Torpedoed Youth  S 
Trinity S 
Vegetable Crack T 
Wavy Gravy  S 
Winnie Roast  S 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mokule'ia Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 21.5784, -158.2287 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,063
Administrators: 20 kN, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Nelson on Jun 10, 2009

85° | 72°

85° | 72°

85° | 72°

85° | 72°

85° | 72°

85° | 72°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Area Reopened MORE INFO >>>

Mokuleia Overview 

The routes in this subsection and organized in order from left (east) to right (west).

Mokuleia Wall is an outstanding basalt cliff with mainly sport routes 40 to 90 feet in length and 5.7 to 5.13 in difficulty. The rock quality is generally good and our classics routes are just as good as the classics at any major sport climbing destination in the continental US. On a crowded day, Mokuleia Wall might see 20 climbers but during the week there might not be anyone. The Mokuleia Wall is one of only a few crags in the United States that can honestly boost a 365-day climbing season in shorts and a T-shirt.

This area is equipped to be easily top-roped. Most of the routes will have strings running from the ground to the anchor and back to the ground so you can clove hitch your rope and pull it through the anchors at the top. Some routes have difficulty ratings printed on the top rope sticks, but the sticks get mixed up so don't place too much confidence in what's printed on the stock. The tallest route is about 85' and has 12 bolts so if you bring a 60m and a dozen draws you will be set. Nearly all the bolts placed at this crag are bomber titanium glue-ins.

Avoid leaving valuables in your car as break-ins can occur on rare occasion.

Note: it is a violation of state law to bring a dog to the crag unless licensed as a service dog. Violations require a mandatory court appearance. Prior to climbing at this crag you are required to fill out a waver which is listed above under the "Area Reopened" text.

Getting There 

From the airport take hwy H-1 west to the turnoff to hwy H-2 north, 8.1 miles. Follow H-2 north until it turn into a road with stop lights, 10.9 miles. Continue up the road (830), with out turning until you get to the town of Wailua, after the gas station on the left you will veer right but end up turning left at a stop sign onto Farrington Hwy, 8.4 miles. Follow the signs to Dillingham air field. From there it is a straight shot, you will pass the airfield and the YMCA, to the parking after seven miles. Parking is along the side of the road.

The approach is short but steep. It can take anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes depending on the person. There is a distinct trail head from the road and a decently well defined trail to the base of the crag. Most route lie to the east (climbers left) when you reach the wall but there is a plethora of routes to the west (climbers right) also. The GPS location listed below is the start of the approach. Google Maps identifies the approach trail as the "Mokuleia trail."

The best thing to do is copy and paste the GPS coordinates in Google Maps and have the website calculate directions from a location of your choice to the crag.

21.5784, -158.2287

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

58 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mokule'ia Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mokule'ia Wall:
Dr. Hook    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Pig Tree   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   
Cactus Garden   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Beat the Burn   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Flower Tower    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Rocky Road    5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Spice of Life   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Rainy Wish    5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Dragon's Breath   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Face The Music   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Nurse Hook    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Fusion    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Blankety Blank   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Torpedoed Youth    5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Copper Dragon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 83'   
Double Dragon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Sport   
Winnie Roast    5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Mission Nearly Impossible   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Slice of Death   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Insecticide    5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mokule'ia Wall

Featured Route For Mokule'ia Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom half of Rainy Wish

Rainy Wish 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Hawaii : Mokule'ia Wall
This route is about 20' left of Trinity and right of where the approach trail. Follow a thin crack on the bottom to a flake in the middle. Hug the flake, clipping the bolts on the right, then stand on the flake for a nice shake-out. Clip the 6th and get ready for the crux. There are two ways to do the crux. The first is to cut straight up the face from the large flake (rare) and the second is to follow the crack left onto the steep slab. The 7th bolt is a bit tricky to clip and it's not a bad i...[more]   Browse More Classics in Hawaii

Photos of Mokule'ia Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Torpedoed Youth, 5.11d
Torpedoed Youth, 5.11d
Rock Climbing Photo: easy to set up top-rope and project.
easy to set up top-rope and project.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the Mokuleia Wall looking east
Another view of the Mokuleia Wall looking east
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Northeast
Looking Northeast
Rock Climbing Photo: Torpedoed Youth, 5.11d
Torpedoed Youth, 5.11d
Rock Climbing Photo: Torpedoed Youth, 5.11d
Torpedoed Youth, 5.11d
Rock Climbing Photo: Dragon slayer, 5.12d
Dragon slayer, 5.12d
Rock Climbing Photo: view of the wall from the road
view of the wall from the road
Rock Climbing Photo: Mokuleia Wall, looking east
Mokuleia Wall, looking east
Rock Climbing Photo: Very different basalt that I've climbed other plac...
Very different basalt that I've climbed other plac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Faking it.
Faking it.
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach...
The approach...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the Mokuleia Wall
Base of the Mokuleia Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Mission Nearly Impossible, 5.12a
Mission Nearly Impossible, 5.12a
Rock Climbing Photo: Dragon Slayer, 5.12d
Dragon Slayer, 5.12d
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't remember the name of this one, it was 17 yea...
Don't remember the name of this one, it was 17 yea...

Comments on Mokule'ia Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 26, 2016
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Sep 19, 2009
Great place to climb and a lot! There are about 56 routes here, that I've been told of. Many of them are mixed, so some of them get quite long runouts without extra pro. I took a 30' fall myself bc I chose not to use the extra pro. Good times. The approach gets quite rocky and had big rocks/boulders on it, so I wouldn't suggest doing it in flip flops (Like I did my first time). Some of the routes' first bolts are a little high, but there is a pole with a clamp on it available to set the first draw, if you're not top roping. There's also a map in the box of the routes, but it's terribly outdated. A book is currently in progress. Follow what's on the sticks with the cord. Climbing here takes a little different style than climbing in my home town, Utah. Also, the rock feels a little slippery to me due to the humidity. Cool place, great routes, but someone did try to break into my rental car (The keyhole get jacked up) so don't leave any valuables in sight. Check out climb aloha. Good selection for a home-ran shop.
By Jennifer H
Sep 20, 2010
I found these directions from to be useful in finding the path to the wall:

Take H-2 north (or go west from Haleiwa) and follow the signs to Waialua on the northwest shore of Oahu. Drive past Waialua and Dillingham Airfield with its skydive center and glider airport. Continue driving until you past the YMCA Camp Erdman facility located on both sides of the highway. At this point, you will want to drive only about another 1,000 feet or so, at which point the ocean and sand is again located just next to the highway. Park your car on either side, and look for a faint trail through tall grass heading up to an obvious cliff line. Avoid, the mistake of continuing too far to the end of the paved highway (an additional half mile past Camp Erdman).
By GreatLakes
Dec 13, 2010
Phenomenal views of the North Shore. If you get there before noon then the crag blocks the sun. Locals are a friendly chill crowd. Stop by a shrimp truck on your way out to make it a full experience.

Ratings are a little light compared to the mainland.….the routes will work you.
By B Wenz
Jul 5, 2011
If anyone is headed up to this wall between July 15th and the 20th and wouldn't mind some company, my lady and i would love to join you to provide entertainment and gas money. We will consider entertaining requests for your preferred type of entertainment. We will have our own rope and draws, etc.
By Jackie K.
From: Steamboat Springs
Jun 21, 2012
There are signs at the trail head that say the park is closed and no entry is allowed. There were also two police officers standing at the trail head preventing people from entering the area yesterday. Below is a link to the news story about the closure:
By Eric Wright
From: Telluride CO.
Jan 21, 2013
Oh Hawaii! Get your act together. Any excuse to keep people out of the forest.
Would love to know who was guiding these kids up there for the YMCA.
Truly qualified guide or a friend of a friend doing a favor. If the later, you know that
morbid old saw. "No good deed goes unpunished".
We have untrained climber types pretending to be guides with too many
misbehaving kids here in CO. And they kick rocks on each other from time
to time. But the state does not close access to public lands over these
By ashjpeters
From: Louisiana
Jan 22, 2013
  • Mokuleia climbing closed*
Does anyone have an update on this? Trying to plan a trip for next year, but not sounding hopeful based on how little information is out there about this closure.
By Eric "Pig" Varley
Jan 24, 2013
Mokuleia and Makapuu are closed for the time being. The best place for information on the closure is to check out Climb Aloha's Facebook page (I can't believe I just recommended Facebook for info). This page will be updated when the crags reopen to the climbing community.
By richie
From: englewood, tn
Apr 3, 2013
Any updates? I just saw where this was closed was planning a trip in October and this was going to be a highlight of the trip. Thanks to the government protecting us from ourselves again.
By Talbert
From: Tempe, AZ
Dec 5, 2013
So I did a quick run buy today on my trip to check out the area, and the signs (3 of them to be exact) are perminatly fixed now. The warning signs are pretty clear about not going up there. The fines are just as bad, $2500 for your first violation, $5k, and then $10k. I didnt even wanna risk the hike up with that kind of a fine. I hope that the state changes there mind about this becasue the view from the top of the chains are just breath taking.
By G Halsne
Nov 27, 2014
Any new Beta? Sounds lame. Is there anywhere to climb on the island other than this?
By 20 kN
From: Hawaii
Jan 23, 2015
The area has been reopened.

As of January 25, 2015, the Moke has been reopened. All climbers are required to sign an electronic waver before climbing at the Moke. You can find the waver here:

Access at this area is fragile, and the area is only open conditionally. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.

Please note the following rules:

- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music

In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:

- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics
By Walter Galli
From: Sint Maarten
Oct 19, 2015
Amazing nature awesome walls, I never climb there in the 2 years I lived there, I regretted now,,, enjoy man ...
By rnakano
Jan 4, 2016
Just spent a morning climbing here. The approach is long, and you'll want footwear that wont slip on a giant rocky path. It's steep, but rewarding when you see the view. Didn't have a change to climb much because there was a torrential downpour not long into the session. Make sure to check the weather! Getting down in the rain can be somewhat treacherous (and fun). From what I could tell there are a lot more top rope strings set up than MP says, so even without sport gear you could climb a good dozen or so routes of various grades. Seems to be the most difficult/developed crag on Oahu.
By CliffRobbins
Feb 2, 2016
Visited in Jan 16 and so glad I did. Excellent crag - lots of high quality routes and the view can't be beat. It was also clear to a visitor that the local community has done a lot to be good stewards of this incredible wall. Thanks to the folks that put in the work to make it accessible to the rest of us.

Thanks also to the friendly local climbers who taught us how to use the string system to get our top-rope through the anchors! Bit of a trick but once you get it the majority of the routes are accessible without leading.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 15, 2016
I'm not sure why I thought there wasn't climbing in Hawaii but pretty excited to learn of my mistake. My niece lives nearby and frequent Dillingham Beach regularly....this crag is just up the road! I'm sure a visit is in my future and I'll be making certain to bring a the basic essentials for climbing too. Locals.... be on notice, I may be contacting you to partner up!
By mjgaglia
Mar 26, 2016
FYI - The toprope lanyards set up out here are run through a single rap ring attached by quick links and chains to two bolts. This is NOT REDUNDANT. Every single group of climbers I saw out there pulled up a rope with the lanyard and went to town TRing and lowering on the single rap ring. Worn out, non-redundant anchors combined with the plethora of questionable rock and glued on holds on the wall screams accident #2 waiting to happen out here.

The bolt placements are mostly poor and definitely run out in places, with no attention paid to falls over ledges. The routes go a good bit harder than their rating as well. Walking around to the top isn't an option here, so stiff, scary leads are your safest bet so you can set up a proper anchor up top. Be careful folks.

Oh and be ready for lots of dogs (supposedly not allowed) and groups that set up multiple top ropes and drift lazily from climb to climb. The view is great though...

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