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Third Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Ah Maw T 
Feathers T 
FM T 
Left Wing T,TR 
Mojo Rising T 
Monster Woman T 
No Mo' Jo' T,TR 
Standard Left Start T 
Standard Route T 
Standard Variation T 
West Face (variation) T,TR 
What's Up? T 
Wingtip T,TR 

Mojo Rising 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonne Von Grebe, 1991.
Page Views: 2,026
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on May 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Shaun Miller, working the initial traverse. Up rop...
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  • Description 

    An interesting route on the third buttress with some fun roofs and jamming. Follow the trail on the N. side of the creek until you can ascend a path below the second buttress. Then hike on the water pipe until you've just passed the mess of cables attached to the rock (toward the right end of the 3rd Buttress).

    This route is normally done in two pitches, but can be lead as one pitch with a 50m without too much rope drag. Start with Standard Route, which moves up on the ramp to the right of the cables and then traverses left into the dihedral. Scamper up this section at about 5.7 then hike a long slab to the first belay--or--continue straight up the dihedral on the left. A fixed pin is at the crux, which involves some tricky footwork with a small flair for the hands up to a knob. Stem up the rest of the dihedral then move right under a roof, up a wide crack, then over a small roof with good holds. Crank the roof then make another 5.9 move across a slab with a finger tip crack on the right (insert RP here). Utilize the excellent friction over the second crux, then crank the second roof to a ledge with a good belay. Scramble off to the left and up to the top. Descend by hiking North toward the Dome and down a gully to the North of the 2nd Buttress.

    A fun route with varied climbing and good moves.


    Protection 

    Standard rack up to 3".



    Photos of Mojo Rising Slideshow Add Photo
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    Ben in foreground, Shaun in background. Are we having fun yet?
    Ben in foreground, Shaun in background. Are we hav...
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    Shaun again.
    Shaun again.
    Ben starting the route. Nice socks, dude.
    Ben starting the route. Nice socks, dude.
    Ben Mottinger. Um, don't know what you yell down to the second in this case....
    Ben Mottinger. Um, don't know what you yell down t...
    Comments on Mojo Rising Add Comment
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    By Adam Hicks`
    Jul 22, 2002

    You have actually given the description for a route that Rossiter has called "Variation." To do Mojo Rising as Rossiter described climb up the same shallow dihedral after the belay on P1, clip the pin, but instead of climbing right and out through the roofs you must climb left, traversing slimy jams underneath the leftern roof and then up and around to meet with Variation at the .8 section 10-20 feet from the top. Joyful climbing!

    By Adam Hicks`
    Jul 24, 2002

    I almost forgot, first of all leftern is not a word. You go left after the pin, under the left roof, around the bulge that fills the space between the two routes to meet variation (what is called mojo rising here). Climb on!

    By Aeon Aki
    Administrator
    Oct 4, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This thing is a walk in the park- Central park- at 2 am.

    By crankenstein
    Oct 15, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    An excellent pitch with climbing that is more sustained than the normal Standard Route. The pin is driven such that a biner will not fit, but it is easy to thread it with a sling. Many fun and interesting moves along the way. 3 star pitch in my opinion.

    By John Maguire
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2010

    A biner fits fine in the piton. It looks like a new one has been driven in....

    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Jun 22, 2011

    I've done Standard Route a bunch of times over the years, but I never did this one. It's my new favorite pitch on the Elephant Buttresses! I didn't need any gear bigger than a #1 Camalot except for my anchor up top....

    Hard to imagine that this went unclimbed until '91?? Especially with the old rusty pins and rusty old chopped bolt.