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 ADVANCED
Upper Walt's Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1995 Budget Closure S 
At Your Pleasure T 
Crack Queen T 
Drag Queen T 
Mojave Queen T 
Route Beer T 
Upper Mojave T 
Where Were You? T 
White Rain T 

Mojave Queen 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Daniels et al.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,334
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Bobby P. copping a lieback on the Mojave Queen cra...

Description 

This premier Walt's Rock classic begins left of White Rain (5.11a) at the base of the formation. Begin in a low-angle chimney and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right (bolt protected) to gain a nice hand crack (5.10). Follow the hand crack to its end where spectacular steep face climbing (crux) is protected by three bolts. The movement and position are exceptional on this route!

Protection 

QD's for four bolt hangers, stoppers, TCU's, and Cams to 2" provide great pro. A two bolt anchor / rappel station is at the top.


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By Randy
Apr 22, 2004

Along with White Rain, this is one of the must do routes on Walts Rocks; with excellent protection. You will need 2 ropes to rap off the anchor (maybe a doubled 70 meter rope will reach). Otherwise, walk right to rap off anchors right of White Rain finish.
By Murf
Apr 17, 2006

Due to the variety of the climbing, quite possibly a better route than WR. KD plucked a plum with this one.
By kevin daniels
Apr 24, 2006

the route is 140 feet long maybe 150

it is good

kevin daniels
By Adam Kimmerly
Nov 8, 2006

Excellent variety topped off by excellent steep face climbing past a few bolts at the top. Superior to White Rain IMHO. A must-do. A circuitous walkoff around the back of Crack Queen eliminates the need for a second rope to rap.
By Phil Esra
Feb 4, 2013

A 70 got us to the ground by tensioning right, uphill. Be careful.