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This premier Walt's Rock classic begins left of White Rain (5.11a) at the base of the formation. Begin in a low-angle chimney and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right (bolt protected) to gain a nice hand crack (5.10). Follow the hand crack to its end where spectacular steep face climbing (crux) is protected by three bolts. The movement and position are exceptional on this route!
QD's for four bolt hangers, stoppers, TCU's, and Cams to 2" provide great pro. A two bolt anchor / rappel station is at the top.
Apr 22, 2004
Along with White Rain, this is one of the must do routes on Walts Rocks; with excellent protection. You will need 2 ropes to rap off the anchor (maybe a doubled 70 meter rope will reach). Otherwise, walk right to rap off anchors right of White Rain finish.
Apr 17, 2006
Due to the variety of the climbing, quite possibly a better route than WR. KD plucked a plum with this one.
|By kevin daniels|
Apr 24, 2006
the route is 140 feet long maybe 150
it is good
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Nov 8, 2006
Excellent variety topped off by excellent steep face climbing past a few bolts at the top. Superior to White Rain IMHO. A must-do. A circuitous walkoff around the back of Crack Queen eliminates the need for a second rope to rap.
|By Phil Esra|
Feb 4, 2013
A 70 got us to the ground by tensioning right, uphill. Be careful.