Moist Hoist 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Tom Wezwick and Matt Gray, 1996 |
| Submitted By: | JimmyK on May 11, 2009 |
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Description P1 - Climb up to two bolt anchor at the center of a diagonal crach and over two large black bulges(100 ft - 5.10).
P2 - Follow bolts up. Some loose rock toward the top. Alternate and easier finish goes up the last 20 feet. Could use small stoppers at beginning of P2. (100ft - 5.10)
Location 60 meter rope required (could use 70 meters)
Protection Two - 2 bolt anchors
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 2, 2010
| Great route guys!
Harder than Vicarious Living for sure...and WAY funkier.
We had a couple small cams (small TCUs) that were nice to have on the second pitch thin crack.
Second pitch is pretty heads-up and kinda crumbly. This thing needs some more traffic! Once the second pitch cleans up it will be much nicer.
If you come prepared for a bolted "sport" climb like you might find on the other side of the canyon...you will be a bit surprised.
Have fun!
Jeremy |
By bruce birchell
Aug 2, 2010
| Excellent route! Pitch 1 has multiple "thinking" crux's, but not super physical. Pitch 2 I thought was underrated. Those first two overlaps are pretty tough and you have to pull harder. With the added problem of some loose crystals that could send you packing, it's a fair bit more serious than pitch 1. I thought the first crux of pitch 2 was at least 10.d, the way I did it. That last crux at the top is no gimme either!
It's a good thing J.A. was leading that one. Whew!!
Jeremy is right, it needs more traffic to clean up.
| Jeremy on 2nd overlap, pitch 2
Submitted By: bruce birchell on Aug 2, 2010
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By Harrison Bucy
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 11, 2012
| A 60m rope did not work for me! I think it reached to the top of the second bolt on pitch two rapping down. Didn't even try a single rope rap for the first pitch. Good thing we drug a second rope behind us. 12 bolts on each pitch. I think the second pitch was slightly harder than the first with two cruxy sections instead of one like the first. Second pitch is still loose and cleaning up. |
By Mark J
Jul 8, 2012
| Agreed fun route! I did this with some newer climbers and was expecting 1st pitch to be a good second route after warming up. Ha note: pitch 1 is 110ft+ a 70 meter rope or double rope rappel is required for this route! I didn't see anything specifying this in the guide book so beware. Other than that debacle the route is fantastic, long, airy, fun moves (stemming, a bulge, face climbing...)
- ***70 meter rope required, (or 2 ropes) 1st anchors are 115ft off the ground****
recommended.
mj |
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