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Moist Hoist 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Wezwick and Matt Gray, 1996
Page Views: 799
Submitted By: JimmyK on May 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

P1 - Climb up to two bolt anchor at the center of a diagonal crach and over two large black bulges(100 ft - 5.10).
P2 - Follow bolts up. Some loose rock toward the top. Alternate and easier finish goes up the last 20 feet. Could use small stoppers at beginning of P2. (100ft - 5.10)


Location 

60 meter rope required (could use 70 meters)


Protection 

Two - 2 bolt anchors



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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 2, 2010

Great route guys!

Harder than Vicarious Living for sure...and WAY funkier.

We had a couple small cams (small TCUs) that were nice to have on the second pitch thin crack.

Second pitch is pretty heads-up and kinda crumbly. This thing needs some more traffic! Once the second pitch cleans up it will be much nicer.

If you come prepared for a bolted "sport" climb like you might find on the other side of the canyon...you will be a bit surprised.

Have fun!

Jeremy

By bruce birchell
Aug 2, 2010

Excellent route! Pitch 1 has multiple "thinking" crux's, but not super physical. Pitch 2 I thought was underrated. Those first two overlaps are pretty tough and you have to pull harder. With the added problem of some loose crystals that could send you packing, it's a fair bit more serious than pitch 1. I thought the first crux of pitch 2 was at least 10.d, the way I did it. That last crux at the top is no gimme either!
It's a good thing J.A. was leading that one. Whew!!
Jeremy is right, it needs more traffic to clean up.

Bruce on pitch 1
Bruce on pitch 1






Jeremy on 2nd overlap, pitch 2
Jeremy on 2nd overlap, pitch 2

By Harrison Bucy
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 11, 2012

A 60m rope did not work for me! I think it reached to the top of the second bolt on pitch two rapping down. Didn't even try a single rope rap for the first pitch. Good thing we drug a second rope behind us. 12 bolts on each pitch. I think the second pitch was slightly harder than the first with two cruxy sections instead of one like the first. Second pitch is still loose and cleaning up.

By Mark J
Jul 8, 2012

Agreed fun route! I did this with some newer climbers and was expecting 1st pitch to be a good second route after warming up. Ha note: pitch 1 is 110ft+ a 70 meter rope or double rope rappel is required for this route! I didn't see anything specifying this in the guide book so beware. Other than that debacle the route is fantastic, long, airy, fun moves (stemming, a bulge, face climbing...)

  • ***70 meter rope required, (or 2 ropes) 1st anchors are 115ft off the ground****

recommended.

mj

By CJK
From: Northern, NM
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Climbed this route on Saturday (3/15/14). Tons of loose rock, my belay was dodging rock at one point. It is supper solid in places and other places just terrible. Cleaned it up a little bit but it needs to see traffic in order to clean up further. If you look at the picture above (Bruce on pitch 1), the bright colored block to the right of the second quick draw is about to blow... BE CAREFUL... that's a big block to fall on (or near) your belayer. Also, 70m rope is mandatory to rap safely. Even with a 70m you will have to scramble off a little ledge. Great route because of the solid slaby sections.