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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Zellers, July 1990
Page Views: 2,697
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 31, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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BETA PHOTO: Mohawk from below, with bolts.


This is the second from the right route of the not so overhung (5.12ish) cave in the center wall.

Climbing is never hard, but is sustained overhang and pumpy the whole way up. Rests can be found after nearly every move with some creativity.

The crux is getting to the first bolt, and cheating in from the right seems to be a preferred choice for the route, though it doesn't make it any easier. This route is all jugs once you get past the first bolt.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Shares the first bolt with Raindance (5.12a), and the last bolt and top anchors with Witch Doctor (5.10c).

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

One star climb- It was worth doing for the pump, but I don't know that I'd bother again if I went.It's dirty at the bottom, with some suspect rock. Up top it's sharp jugs with pumpy moves to the chains. 45 feet or so tall. If the grade is testy for you, you should stick-clip bolt #1.
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Dec 3, 2008

Disagree. The rock only looks suspect because it's typical Chief Choss. Looks like crap, but is bomber. The climb is awesome, great way to get a burn and work overhanging route at moderate grade.
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 15, 2008

I'd agree about stick clipping the first bolt if you're not confident in the grade - the first one's a doozy...
By LifeIsGood
From: Reno, NV
May 16, 2010

Paying close attention to what you're doing rather than where you're going as you make your initial approach - you may well almost miss the first bolt (it was at my hip when I noticed it) - just a word to the wise ... watch where you're going!

Also, someone has spray painted a white 'X' on a very crucial move. I'm not sure if this is because the hold is loose, or just because someone thought they'd 'mark the hold' for someone else. Definitely made me suspect and leery of climbing it, because if it is marked because it is loose, it would really be bad to be pulling on it as you make your move and have it come off
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Putting a chalked 'X' on a chunk of rock is a pretty common way to communicate that a piece of rock is suspect and should be left alone.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Aug 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The crux for me was getting to the first bolt. Big holds for a 10a after that.
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jul 5, 2015

Heh, the "X" on the route is obviously a locals idea of keeping people off of this route. Super solid.

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