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Mogenhead 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,185
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on May 9, 2006

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Description 

Crux up high near anchors, long runout on easy ground between 2nd and 3rd bolts with definite ground fall potential.

Location 

2nd route from right on main wall.

Protection 

Bolts & chains.


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By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 9, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Easy ground between B2 and B3, but don't fall unless you want a memorial plaque with your name on it embedded in the rock at the base of the route...
By Desicon
Jul 13, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Scott and Jerry:

I have done this climb a number of times, and I've wondered myself if another bolt should be added simply because so many of the climbers here do not bother carrying any gear up with them. The smallest of the Lowe Tricams, pink cord, can be used if protection is desired, about three feet above B2, and there are several cracks that will take small nuts.

About five years ago, a member of the First Ascent team explained that they thought the placement of a bolt between the current B2 and B3 might "look silly and be of minimal safety use" as the best face rock for it is only three feet up from B2. The next solid placement available would put a bolt on the horizontal apron area below B3, and might set up a situation of rope drag for those climbing on quick-draws. Beats me.

Anyway, I'll pass on this information to the FA team if any of them are still in town.
By JTC
Sep 19, 2011

There is a bolt and bolt+chain at the top. The lone bolt loose enough to where I could hand tighten the nut. As I was cleaning this route, I noticed this and went down cautiously.

I would recommend caution to anyone who still wants to climb this route.