Mountain Project: Climbing Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

[OK-- it's not really a "new" route, but it was never logged anywhere officially, for no particular reason.]

1. Climb easy, weedy wall to belay bolt just left of the start of the “S” crack.

2. Up crack to bolted belay. (5.9+ 145’)

3. Follow main system past old bail-off bolt, then out roof to the right, past 4 bolts to bolted belay. (5.10a 170’) (It’s possible to belay on ledges midway through pitch)

4. Up cracks, out small roof, past bolt to belay. (5.10 110’)

5. Climb flakes to face, past 2 bolts, then back into crack. Belay at top. (5.8+ 155’)

Location

This beautiful, “S” shaped crack system is located on Table Mt., way right of “Cherry Jam” and the original descent gully. The FA team spent 2 ½ years on this project resulting in a sweet line filled with stemming, laybacking, jamming, and roof moves for 4 long pitches after the initial approach pitch. If you’re into the camping type of assault, (Pima Canyon approach working better for this,) there’s a beautiful (dry) camp spot at the top of the route.

Approach: [both options take 2.5 to 5 hrs.]
Option A: From base of “Cherry Jam,” hike right to the base of the descent gully and gear up, leaving packs there. Walk, rap, and traverse right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of “S” crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.

Option B: Park in Pima Canyon lot (overnight permit: 740-2690) and hike to top of Table Mt. Drop down original descent gully then walk, rap, and traverse (climber’s) right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of “S” crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.

Descent: Hike (climber’s) left to original descent gully. 2 single rope raps and a down climb to base of gully (or 4 single rope raps in snowy/wet conditions.)

Protection

Standard with doubles on cams to 3", and a 4".
60 M rope preferred, but not necessary.

Comments on Modern Day Warrior

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By brian benedon
Aug 22, 2010

Modern Day Warrior may have a move or two that is 5.10 by today's standards, but the route is mostly well protected, fun .8 & .9, with lots of crack climbing and great exposure.
it is usually in the shade, but don't try it in the summer.
there are rap anchors at each belay. it is possible to rap the route with two 50m ropes if you had to, but the gully is the preferred descent.
you could simul climb for 15' on the 3rd pitch if you had only a 50m rope.
a 60 m rope works best, and it also eliminates the down climb in the gully.
the route can be climbed with only cams if you want to save some weight.
there is a nice camp site on top, 50' to the NE of the climb, over the rock mound, close to the edge. there is no reliable water, but there are places that catch rain water, and the gully seeps.
MDW has been climbed clean about 11 times, but do be cautious of loose rock.
i don't believe that anyone has climbed it without being " guided ". be the first to get a true second. it takes 3 hours to get to the bottom of the descent gully, and 15 min to get over to the start. with a 60m rope you could start lower than you would need to with a 50.
if you get lost, remember we had no description. please tell if you do the route. enjoy.

By sneezy
Mar 22, 2011

Did this route last weekend, it was a great full-day adventure. First time up to Table from the North for me, got to the rope-up spot in 3 hours. We were able to follow the directions no problem. Well protected, steep, fun route. We tried to find a more direct route on the hike out, and it didn't really work. I don't know why-shortcuts are always a good idea.

By brian benedon
Mar 31, 2012

hey sneezy thanks for the post, it is nice to hear that you had a good time on MDW.

A couple friends also did the route last year.

check out new approach beta under Table mountain

If anyone is planning to climb Modern Day Warrior, let me know, I might like to take some photos.

Modern Day Warrior

5.10 PG13

Description

Location

Protection

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