[OK-- it's not really a "new" route, but it was never logged anywhere officially, for no particular reason.]
1. Climb easy, weedy wall to belay bolt just left of the start of the “S” crack.
2. Up crack to bolted belay. (5.9+ 145’)
3. Follow main system past old bail-off bolt, then out roof to the right, past 4 bolts to bolted belay. (5.10a 170’) (It’s possible to belay on ledges midway through pitch)
4. Up cracks, out small roof, past bolt to belay. (5.10 110’)
5. Climb flakes to face, past 2 bolts, then back into crack. Belay at top. (5.8+ 155’)
This beautiful, “S” shaped crack system is located on Table Mt., way right of “Cherry Jam” and the original descent gully. The FA team spent 2 ½ years on this project resulting in a sweet line filled with stemming, laybacking, jamming, and roof moves for 4 long pitches after the initial approach pitch. If you’re into the camping type of assault, (Pima Canyon approach working better for this,) there’s a beautiful (dry) camp spot at the top of the route.
Approach: [both options take 2.5 to 5 hrs.]
Option A: From base of “Cherry Jam,” hike right to the base of the descent gully and gear up, leaving packs there. Walk, rap, and traverse right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of “S” crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.
Option B: Park in Pima Canyon lot (overnight permit: 740-2690) and hike to top of Table Mt. Drop down original descent gully then walk, rap, and traverse (climber’s) right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of “S” crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.
Descent: Hike (climber’s) left to original descent gully. 2 single rope raps and a down climb to base of gully (or 4 single rope raps in snowy/wet conditions.)
Standard with doubles on cams to 3", and a 4".
60 M rope preferred, but not necessary.
BETA PHOTO: original photo by "michaelclimbs"
BETA PHOTO: At top of p.1
MDW is the S-shaped line with the orange dihedral ...
BETA PHOTO: p.3
photo by B.B.
BETA PHOTO: close up of MDW
BETA PHOTO: small roof p.4
photo by B.B.
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 2-5 follow the S
B.B. hangin' out
|By brian benedon|
Aug 22, 2010
Modern Day Warrior may have a move or two that is 5.10 by today's standards, but the route is mostly well protected, fun .8 & .9, with lots of crack climbing and great exposure.
it is usually in the shade, but don't try it in the summer.
there are rap anchors at each belay. it is possible to rap the route with two 50m ropes if you had to, but the gully is the preferred descent.
you could simul climb for 15' on the 3rd pitch if you had only a 50m rope.
a 60 m rope works best, and it also eliminates the down climb in the gully.
the route can be climbed with only cams if you want to save some weight.
there is a nice camp site on top, 50' to the NE of the climb, over the rock mound, close to the edge. there is no reliable water, but there are places that catch rain water, and the gully seeps.
MDW has been climbed clean about 11 times, but do be cautious of loose rock.
i don't believe that anyone has climbed it without being " guided ". be the first to get a true second. it takes 3 hours to get to the bottom of the descent gully, and 15 min to get over to the start. with a 60m rope you could start lower than you would need to with a 50.
if you get lost, remember we had no description. please tell if you do the route. enjoy.
Mar 22, 2011
Did this route last weekend, it was a great full-day adventure. First time up to Table from the North for me, got to the rope-up spot in 3 hours. We were able to follow the directions no problem. Well protected, steep, fun route. We tried to find a more direct route on the hike out, and it didn't really work. I don't know why-shortcuts are always a good idea.
|By brian benedon|
Mar 31, 2012
hey sneezy thanks for the post, it is nice to hear that you had a good time on MDW.
A couple friends also did the route last year.
check out new approach beta under Table mountain
If anyone is planning to climb Modern Day Warrior, let me know, I might like to take some photos.
|By brian benedon|
Oct 13, 2013
Trip report; 10/12/2013
I repeated MDW clean for the 8th or 9th time I think Sat. but it had been a while since the last time and I thought I might share some recent beta.
It was a perfect 15 hr day, we were in the shade for all but an hour or two in the afternoon.
A long sleeve shirt was just right. We each used a gallon and a pint of water and Gatorade. There was no water in the gully. The trails are really good most of the way, the brush is thick up high, but they are not sticker bushes. There were no bees snakes or other critters.
The trail head is marked by a no hunting sign, the lower trails see a fair amount of use, and new trails have popped up. It's best to scout out the hike in the day light.
It took us 2hs 50 min to the gully where we left our packs.(in and out) I replaced the fixed sling and binner on the rap headed over to MDW. Someone may want to add another.
I used to 4th class as high as possible to start the first pitch, but with a 60 you don't have to 4th class, just scramble up 3rd class as high as you can to a ledge with some small bushes.
Pitch 1 is really dirty, the leader needs a tool to clean for placements. There are not many placements to be had.
There is much fractured loose and scary rock on this route, but like most back country routes you can navigate thru if you pay attention. In the gully P3, there are many chalk stones that need to be used. Hopefully any that were loose have already been dislodged.
The route has been climbed at-least 15 times. There is some rope drag at the end of P3.
I have never belayed in the middle of this P, one of the qualities of P3 is the long and sustained nature of it.
We used doubles thru #4, 2 small nuts, 5 draws and 10 runners w/ binners, and 3 leave behind slings.
Hope this helps
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