Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Select Route:
(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) 
(un-named) 5.7 arete 
5.8 Corner 
Banana Route 
Bird's Nest Crack 
Black Magic 
Butter D Licious 
Chimney Route 
City Of Worms 
Cloudy Day 
Dance with the Devil 
Dead Reckoning 
Easy Street 
Exit Stage Right 
Flight of the Swallows 
Full Moon Bar B Que 
Golden Arch 
Golden Arches 
Graham's Crack 
Hob Knob 
Hot Steele 
Hot Wing 
Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge 
Man Overboard 
Mean Lean 
Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) 
Minnie Driver 
Modern Day Pirates 
Mystery Slab 
New Ideal 
no name (on Wolf Wall) 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The 
Polar Express 
project on Wolf Wall 
Psycho Killer 
Putting Out the Vibe 
Renegade Trad 
Scooter Girl 
Song of the Cows 
Steele Head 
Stepping Out 
Sugar Magnolia 
Suspended Animation 
Three Pitch 
Tornado on your Birthday 
Uncertain Return 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. 
unnamed trad on wolf wall 
Walk the Line 
Welcome to Steele 
Wendy's Finger Crack 

Modern Day Pirates 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: M. Reed, M McNease, B. Wolfe (1984)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 824
Submitted By: bernard on Nov 10, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Route begins on a vertical to slightly overhanging wall with maybe an old pin and an old bolt, quarter-incher w/Leeper hanger. I suggest that you be solid on moves through this opening sequence until this old fixed gear is upgraded. Stiff moves in this section lead up to a slabbish area with nice, unprotected moves (run out). Deliberately move up on this expansive section of wall to bolts....i think two, rather close together, pulling on edges up through a minor crux to a large hueco or hole-type feature and under a large, triple-tiered roof. Very intimdating here....immense, terrific exposure. Beef up security and launch out roofs. Long reaches to a fixed pin (Lost Arrow-style). The final, burliest crank through the roofs is a blind reach for holds just over the lip of the final tier. Fiercely mantle, heel-hook, flop, or otherwise gracefully pull up onto the top of the final tier shelf and finish through the remaining wide handcrack the splits the final, slabby headwall (also scary).


(old area, just before the Ampitheater)
First route to the left of Whole Wheat/Fables dihedral, the large dihedral that Dreadlock is to the right of. To the left is Flying Circus and Tech Noir. Tech Noir follows a striking overhanging arete that is a prominant feature in this section of cliff. Around left from the Tech Noir arete is Meathooks and Memory and Rock Wa. The third class descent gully is just past Rock Wa/Meathooks wall


this is a mixed route but one would be advised to load up a typical Steele rack. Do not neglect large pro. As in any case, carefully inspect the fixed gear on this route as some of it is pretty old.

This is a long, big route. There are no fixed anchors at the top. Construct an anchor using long slings on trees but one may be best advised to belay from the top. Descend the 3rd class gully somewhat behind the finish area for this route.

Comments on Modern Day Pirates Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -