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Modern Day Cowboy 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Snyder
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: ldsclimber on Jul 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Chris getting up MDC

Description 

This may be the coolest route on the cliff! Starts in the middle of the far left blank wall and takes good holds to the chains. Trends left from start to finish. Great movement!


Location 

Left most route.


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Modern Day Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
austin showing how its done
austin showing how its done
Chris working MDC
Chris working MDC
Chris nearing the top of MDC
Chris nearing the top of MDC
chris making his way up MDC
chris making his way up MDC
The rest before the next business.
The rest before the next business.
Comments on Modern Day Cowboy Add Comment
Show which comments
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I thought it was harder than 11. I fell all over the start, worked it til I pumped out at the top. Hard to see the good holds. That makes it feel as if I'm climbing something new instead of following a line...

By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The first 15 ft or so is a super tech moderately hard boulder problem followed by some straight forward climbing. Keep it together because the chains are guarded by another 10 foot section of powerful bouldering moves to small elusive holds. Enjoy!

By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Powerful, balancy moves. Esp down low.
May favor the tall? At the very least, it favors the strong. Very fun!

By Hugo Almanza
From: Phoenix,AZ
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Amazing double cruxes, getting of the ground requires precision technique more than strength. The last crux, aka the heartbreaker, guards the chains. The last crux is somewhat elusive and if you veer more right could be harder than 12a. Once you find the key hold it flows well. Try it!!!

By Chad McCollum
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Hold broke today, the gaston just right of 6th draw before the dyno to the jug. It is still usable although quite dirty. Great route, sustained and harder than 11. My vote is 12a especially now with a little hold revision. Lot of soft stuff, be careful.

By Elliot Metsger
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route is really, really good. Great movement. Worth a trip to the crag just to do this route. I would say 11c. Bouldery start, but it's all there, and good rests at each stance after.

By Austin Sobotka
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Really great climb. 11c seems about right, although an on-sight attempt may be worthy of a 12a (it would be quite tricky to find the last move without any beta). If you're at the Library, give it a shot!