|By Jeff Thomas |
May 1, 2012
My wife and I are heading down to Taos in a couple weeks for a good friends birthday party.
We don't climb trad (yet) so I was just wondering what the best moderate climbing is in the area. I'm comfortable leading up to 10 c/d, but routes under 10b will be best.
What area has the best concentration of routes up to 10B.
I'm happy to give up some choice and quality in order to avoid the crowds. I don't know if it gets as busy there, but up in Shelf it gets to be busier than the gym.
Also any camping recommendations nearby the crag would be helpful.
We prefer backcountry camping to an established campground, but location comes first.
|By Jason Halladay |
From Los Alamos, NM
May 2, 2012
I'd suggest Comales Canyon, Utopian Vistas and El Rito Sport Area. Comales is at a higher elevation and will be cooler, all day climbing. I've never camped in the area there but I believe there's an established campground right nearby as well as plenty of national forest dispersed camping opportunity.
Utopian Vistas will be toasty in the mornings with its easterly orientation and dark basalt rock but will be pleasant enough in the afternoons. Down canyon, along the Rio Grande River, are a number of established campgrounds but they're right along the road, too, so not the most aesthetic.
El Rito sport area is about 40 minutes drive from Taos offering super fun conglomerate sport climbing. There's very convenient and nice camping right near the parking area. It's at a relatively high elevation so it'll be cooler mountain camping.
|By LeeAB |
From ABQ, NM
May 11, 2012
El rito, as Jason mentioned, is probably the best choice, though it can be crowded (not to scare you off because it is great climbing but since you mentioned crowds) though probably nothing like Cactus gets in the winter when it seems like it is the only cliff that exists and everyone in the front range is there.