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Moderate Mecca
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbey Road 
Ace of Hearts 
Baby Swiss 
Bad Soup 
Boodler 
Born To Bleed 
Carpetbagger 
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo 
Chicken Soup for the Soul 
Feelin' Groovy 
Fleet Street 
Fly From Soup to Nuts 
From Soup to Nuts 
Goose Poop Roof 
Haj, The 
Immoral 
Is It Soup Yet 
Muckraker 
Not So Moderate 
Pending Disaster 
Penny Lane 
Route to Mecca, The 
Save It For A Rainy Day 
Scalawag 
Side Effects 
Singing Love Pen 
Sir Climbalot 
Soup Nazi 
Soupy Sales 
Stew on This 
Treacherous Journey 
Valentine's Day 
Vera's Roof 
You Who Jim 
Unsorted Routes:

Moderate Mecca 


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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Feb 17, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Map of Calico Basin Area

Description 

Moderate Mecca is just that - a mecca of many easy to moderate crack climbs. The climbing has quick access, straight-forward descents, and usually good pro. The face is sunny and warm, so it is well suited for colder days.


Getting There 

Take highway 159 to Calico Basin road. This is the first major road east of the main Red Rocks park. Follow this road to a T intersection, then take a left and park at the picnic area at the end of the road.

Hike south on a path uphill. Then descend a short ways until it is possible to contour around to your right (west). This is the Moderate Mecca. The routes all start from this ledge system, which has cliffs below and above.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moderate Mecca:
Valentine's Day   5.8+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Haj   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Pending Disaster   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Soup Nazi   5.10a     TR, 60 feet   
Side Effects   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Scalawag   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Ace of Hearts   5.10d PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Save It For A Rainy Day   5.12a/b A1-2     Trad, TR, Aid, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Moderate Mecca

Featured Route For Moderate Mecca
Tony Bubb starts up 'Pending Disaster' (5.9+) at Red Rocks' Moderate Mecca. Photo 1/03. By Kent Korbel?

Pending Disaster 5.9+  NV : Red Rock : ... : Moderate Mecca
The Swain Book calls this 'one of the better routes at the crag.' As it were, it might be one of the few deserving of 2 stars. This climb is nice, and is fun, but is not a standout at Red Rocks. Starting from the left end of Moderate Mecca's Left side, find the obvious roof crack of Scalawag, then facing the cliff, look to the right to the large arête split by cracks. Large splotches of white calcite pepper the area. Climb a left-leaning crack up to a crack system that has a tricky move or two, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of Moderate Mecca Slideshow Add Photo
Semi-curious onlooker in Moderate Mecca.

Semi-curious onlooker in Moderate Mecca.

Moderate Mecca "Side Effects" bolder

Moderate Mecca "Side Effects" bolder

Mecca sunset

Mecca sunset

Mecca silhouette

Mecca silhouette

moderate mecca, 12/08

moderate mecca, 12/08

Valentine's Day. Photo by Gigi.

Valentine's Day. Photo by Gigi.

A close look at the bee colony located in a deep chimney/cleft near the narrow part of ledge from which climbs begin. The hive continues forever into this cavern. Don't disturb. They have better things to do than get after you, but if they have to....

A close look at the bee colony located in a deep c...

Brett Hannah somewhere in the Calico Basin. <br />Photo by Steve Cox

Brett Hannah somewhere in the Calico Basin.
Photo ...


side effects

side effects


Comments on Moderate Mecca Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 17, 2004

The name Moderate Mecca implies that it is some sort of destination or attraction, a concept I have substantial disagreement with. Relative to the rest of Red Rocks, the climbs here are short, dirty, broken, unaesthetic, and well, not as good. The area was more or less a waist of time for I and my moderate partner, who had better days everywhere else we went. We climbed a line or two that were touted as "one of the best lines at the crag" and found that to be at best a measured compliment, or perhaps more of a back-handed compliment.So I vote "blah" for this area. If what you seek is sun and a few lines to tick, you can go and have a good day, but it's a crag of local, not regional notability & quality.

By Jon Cannon
Feb 18, 2004

Moderate Mecca is a superb area for beginning to moderate climbers. South-facing, it gets LOTS of sun. The short approach makes this crag easily accessible to even the portliest climber. Driving to the parking area, however, takes one right through the heart of a residential area, so *please* be considerate of the neighbors.

Traveling west down West Charleston, turn right on to Calico Basin Road. Drive 1.2 miles to a T-intersection and turn left into the Red Spring picnic area. Park at the southernmost end of the lot. Walk south up the old road to a ridge. Head downhill about 25 meters and bear right on to the ledge. If you end up below the Easter Island head, you've gone too far (although there is a nice 5.10+ located here).

By Max Schon
Mar 16, 2004

This crag is not worth going to. The climbs are very short and, for the most part, chossy.

By Woody Stark
Apr 17, 2004

My daughter Tia and I finished up three days at RR with a visit to Moderate Mecca. We had half a day before heading back to Riverside. It's quick to get to and has a number of short climbs of varying difficulty. We very much enjoyed ourselves. It's also a good formation for a windy day. There's some loose rock at the base and on the lower ledges but nothing to get agitated about. We plan on going back when we have limited time but still want to get some rockwork in.

By 10b4me
Apr 26, 2004

What a fun little afternoon of climbing. Some classic overhanging hand cracks,faces, and it is worth going to for a quick run up some fun routes. as per the norm some are better quality than others but I think it is always up to the people going. Some great gear leads valentines day, muckraker, scalawag, boodler, pending disaster, are all good and take good pro. a real classis is ace of hearts. take some small stuff like black and blue aliens, three of each should do and brassy's and 4bd and smaller wires. this is a bit of a more serious lead but a classic for the area. have a stong head and remember power by numbers.

By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Feb 5, 2006

Here's my take on this area of short, chossy to high quality routes;

  • Great if you have limited time as approach is short
  • South facing; great for cooler months
  • Gorgeous surroundings with great views of the Spring Mountain range
  • Many choices of easy to difficult climbs
  • Good practice for you and your belayers in dealing chossy rock and rock fall.(You yell "ROCK" quite often)
  • Good practice for pulling "heady" cruxes (A lot of climbs in the area have a crux down low)
  • You can have a choice of walk-off or rap off on several of these routes.
  • Nice "picnic" ledges at the base for lying around/hanging out.

By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Jul 29, 2009

I am Inclined to agree with GiGi. Additionally, this crag is shady in the late afternoon/early evening in July. When it is 110F in the valley, it is surprisingly pleasant in this location (but heats up like a skillet in the sunny portions of the day.) There is quite often a nice breeze ( though occasionally it gets a bit too breezy; in that case, head over to the other side of Calico Basin, by Cannibal Crag and beyond.) It is also good in winter, as it warms up nicely in the morning, due to its southern exposure.