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Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)

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Boulder "Garden" 
Library, The 
Main Wall 
Paradise  

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.1476, -76.1135 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,719
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jarred Cleerdin on Aug 7, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Mocanaqua

Description 

Nice single pitch about 35 m high some fun PA style climbing.


Getting There 

Driving from Philadelphia or Lehigh valley or New Jersey or New York City, usually faster to take I-80 West to exit 256, then rt 93 north + west about 3 miles, then turn right on rt 239 North and go 7.5 miles north (with several turns) through Wapwallopen to Mocanaqua. (without using rt 11 or visiting Shickshinny).

To the Main Wall from US 11 cross the bridge into Mocanaqua. Follow 239 into town to where 239 makes a 90 turn to the right go straight on SR 3004 instead of following 239.

The parking is a small dirt lot up a mile give or take on the left immediately off the road before the s turns. The trail is on the right of the little parking lot. The Main Wall cliff parallels the road here and is quite close to the road, but nicely screened by the trees.


Governance 

Earth Conservancy


Climbing Season


45 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',7],['5.9',4],['5.10',10],['5.11',10],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mocanaqua (Shickshinny):
Pizza   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Main Wall
Cornflake Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   The Library : Main Block, Back Side
Broken Finger   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Paradise
Urine Over Your Head   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   The Library : Main Block, Front Side
Bullseye   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 40'   Main Wall
Stairway to Heaven   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   The Library : Rear Wall
I-Beam   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Paradise
Double Wave   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)

Featured Route For Mocanaqua (Shickshinny)
Top roping I-Beam

I-Beam 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  PA : Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) : Paradise
Look for the mineral deposits and chalk running down the wall, step up the the incut in the rock below the bolt. follow the route straight up, first crux between the first two bolts. (Hint: finger lock) after that continue straight up to the the second crux below 3rd bolt. after that head up, pull through the over hand and head up and left to the bolted anchor. Enjoy...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) Slideshow Add Photo
Mocanaqua
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Rambo Direct
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At the crux of Hickory.
At the crux of Hickory.
Mocanaqua
BETA PHOTO: Mocanaqua
Tons of established boulder problems exist along with tons of virgin problems. Here's a new problem that was cleaned Ancient Texts in the Boulder Garden.
Tons of established boulder problems exist along w...
Comments on Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) Add Comment
Show which comments
By kenr
May 24, 2014

Driving from Philadelphia or Lehigh valley or New Jersey or New York City, usually faster to take I-80 West to exit 256, then rt 93 north + west about 3 miles, then turn right on rt 239 North and go 7.5 miles north (with several turns) through Wapwallopen to Mocanaqua. (without using rt 11 or visiting Shickshinny).

By Michael Schneider
Jun 12, 2014

Why did the name change? when?
the old name?
the old Bob D'Antonio?
I may never climb here again but when I can't count on the names
It makes me sound wrong when I'm not
I saw Ski Mini Changed to the Peterskill area
and Ice caves mnt to Sams point both before the climbing was documented
true history is rare and good the old names should /could have been kept

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 13, 2014

What was the original name of this crag?

By karl kvashay
From: cedar city, utah
Jun 25, 2014

"Mocanaqua" is the general location title that covers several distinct crags and boulder "gardens" scattered in the hills behind the town of Mocanaqua. The specific crag names are Paradise, The Library, Main Wall, Hawk Rock, and Squirrel Rock, along with quite a few others. There is a bunch of great climbing and fortunately most of it has good legal access.
If you're into history, the region's coal mining heritage is in evidence here in the form of great culm banks, abandoned structures, open mine shafts, etc. Paradise, for example was a dumping ground for this mine waste known as "culm" and untold tons of the stuff got poured right over the top. As you approach the cliff from the river, this culm is in evidence the whole way and you can imagine the carts dumping load after load over the top until the cliff almost disappeared. Lucky for us they stopped, leaving a fifty of sixty foot band exposed. The routes here go up to 5.12+ and there bouldering and highballs galore.
Geologically, the rock is quartzite of the Penobscot formation, and (I think) it's pretty cool that it's the same ridge that has exposures in West Virginia (Seneca) and in New York (The Gunks).

By karl kvashay
From: cedar city, utah
Jun 25, 2014

As far as climbing history goes, the first person I know of who started developing these cliffs was Albert Pisaneschi and I'm pretty sure that began in the late seventies/early eighties. For some reason Bob D'antonio is the name that comes up but you can be sure he contributed a fraction of a percent of what Albert did. My guess is Bob talked, Al did not. Albert never reported his own routes, but he was prolific, climbing 5.13 sport, hard trad, ground up first ascents of hard (A4) nail ups, etc. Yet another "unsung" heroe of our sport as his friend Rich Romano would like to say.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 25, 2014

Thanks Karl.

By Gordon88
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Jul 8, 2014

Directions that are helpful. I used them to find the library last weekend:

https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&gl=us&ie=UTF8&t=h&msa=>>>