Moby Grape 

Moby Grape is route #9 in the picture above

Great route but not for your first lead. I thought the pro was going to be better, according to the guide it's great. Good moves all up the first pitch. Pull through the crack in the roof above the first anchors, the best moves on the climb, then slip your way up easy, unprotected lichen slabs to the top ledges. The walk off is exsposed and kind of sucks.

This was my first trad lead and I didn't own any cams yet, only nuts. I thought it was great........

Agree with Les on the walk off. It is relatively low 5 grad traversing, but if you slip it's a potentialy fatal ride all the way to the deck. Would advise staying roped up and on belay until you reach the hike down on the nortwest side.

Do the roof ! it's wild pumping 5.10 "jugs" A classic finish to this great route !

The first pitch of this route is a great one if you're looking to take a beginner up a sweet toprope. It is possible to use a 60m rope, but I had to climb the first 15 feet or so of easy rock at the base of the route in order to belay for the toprope. Of course, that also means downclimbing from that point after you've rapped from the anchors. I didn't find it too tough at all.

Wasn't Moby Grape a rock band in the seventies?

Great route, don't just do pitch 1 & 2 then walk off, head up the easy crack above pitch 2 anchors to the top! Fun little step from pitch 1 anchors to get around the roof. Wasn't up for the direct over the roof, but it looked doable. I stopped short of the pitch 2 anchors and put a long sling around a big boulder so I could see my 2nd come up. Another fun route at 11mile.

Fun first pitch, some loose rock half way up but a nice move to the anchors.

Good route up solid rock. Wasn't super hard, but definitely fun! There are lots of holds (on left wall or right face) and good stances to place pro. Bring 2 ropes to get down if you don't want to walk around.

Only one 60m rope is required if you want to rap from the anchors at the top of the first pitch. It will get you down to just above the ground from where you can easily pull the ropes.

A 70m rope is useful for lowering or rapping.

Lots of rests available on the first pitch. Definitely worth doing if you're in the mood for a mellow climb. The downclimbing at the base isn't difficult if you're on a 60m rope.

Moby Grape is a rock group from the 60s! They are so old that I have an album of theirs that is monaural (not stereo for you ipod heads). Listen to "Hey Grandma".

This is a nice route, but gear placements down low can be tough in the shallow crack.

On the first ascent, Gregg dislodged a pretty large flake almost trashing me AND his brand new Purple rope!!!

I found the first pitch to be a nice climb on the easy side of 5.7. The second pitch wasn't all that interesting and I wish we had just rappelled down and using the time on another route.

Agree with Dave G. Really fun 1st pitch -- easy 5.7 Simple to protect. Crux just before the anchors. Set a top rope for followers. You need a 70m rope to set up a top rope from the bottom.

Looks better in the photo than it climbs. The 1st 25ft is good, some loose rock, dirt, good pro.

1st pitch is great, good pro and fun climbing that's on the easier end of 5.7. 2nd pitch is of little interest, it's 5.2 bath tubs and jugs with a couple of 5.4 moves, that meander across the top half of the crag. Unless you want to practice working with a second on a (semi) hanging belay, just do pitch one and use your time on one of the other fun routes. Towards the end of the second pitch beware the hangerless bolt studs sticking out of the rock. They are a major trip hazard and it's on terrain easy enough to choose to be unroped.

Much, much easier than Happy Trails, the alleged 5.6 to the right.

Great beginner trad route for the grade; take and handful of nuts off your rack, throw them at the crack and Wa-La...pro magnet!