Moby Dike 5.10+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Pat Goodman, John (Verm) Sherman |
| Submitted By: | Pat Goodman on Nov 23, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Upper portion of route.
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Ship Rock is located on the Navajo Nation, and currently climbing is ILLEGAL on the Navajo Nation; including Ship Rock. MORE INFO >>>
According to the most recently published guide on Ship Rock ("Desert Rock", and "50 Classics.."), Ship Rock was placed off limits to climbing in 1967, but the ban was not enforced until 1970, following an accident. Since 1970, some people have made clandestine ascents without incident. Others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or been fined- it is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here.
Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, at other places on the Navajo Nation.
It is probably legal to drive to the base. It is supposedly illegal to camp there, however widespread litter suggests that this is a popular "party spot" (which may be deterrent in of itself). It is illegal to collect or remove rocks on the Navajo Nation, without a permit.
This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL. MORE INFO >>>
While some have made clandestine ascents in the area without incident, others climbing on the Navajo Nation have had their gear confiscated or have been fined. It is unclear what the specific consequences would be if confronted by Navajo authorities. It is unclear if one can get permission to climb here from someone with the appropriate authority to legitimize climbing here. Some climbers have talked to locals, especially the grazing-permit holders, and respectfully asked permission, and have had really positive experiences, climbing as well as a cultural experience, in some areas on the Navajo Nation.
This area is included for historical purposes mainly, and as a location to put those amazing photos everyone has.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description The "Moby Dike" is the first (and only as of 2009) all free route that climbs to the main summit of Shiprock. It was climbed ground-up and onsite.
The meat of the climbing is pitches 5-6 they are protected with a mix of gear and bolts on good rock - for Shiprock that is.
Location Start on the west face in Longs Col. When the gully ends in the big bowl below the N. and Main summits, the "Dike" will be obvious! It's the big vein of black basalt heading up the west face to the saddle between the two summits.
Follow the dike up and left to the saddle, eventually landing you on the east face after 3 pitches of climbing.
Traverse left (to the south)then up good cracks on the N.E. face of the Main summit.
Protection Double ropes, set of nuts, cams to 2" loads of long slings...
BETA PHOTO: Lower portion of route.
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By Pat Goodman
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 24, 2009
| Yeah, I know the Standard (Original) route on Shiprock is typically regarded as a free rt @ around 5.9. But the necessity of the rappels in all honesty and ethically, negates a "free" ascent - hence the aid rating in the grade...5.9 C.0. Moby Dike was established in 1999 and with the blessing of a local homesite permit holder.
Hmmm, funny, I just noticed that Moby Dike is listed as a route in the picture you posted of the register. |
By Pat Goodman
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 26, 2009
| Thanx for the history lesson Marc...
Here is a little history for you - FFA of the Main "highest point, west summit, etc.." Summit of Shiprock - 1999 J. Sherman, P. Goodman.
Yeah, I know about the raps, many of those bolts I placed.
Yeah I know about Orme's Rib, been up there many times - if you climb the N. Summit then rap and and climb back up the Main and South summits, you did an aid rt. |
By chad69
From: USA
Nov 26, 2009
| None of this info should be on the wide world web!!
But I gotta agree about the aid rating on the Standard Rt. Although, at the time of my ascent I never really considerd it an aid climb.
Nice job on a proud FFA fellas! |
By nvjclimber
Dec 19, 2009
| I have been climbing around the Four Corners area for years. Mr. Goodmans name has become synonymous with Shiprock. Moby Dike is THE free rt on that formation, as stated above, The Standard Rt has a bit of aid, i.e., the RAPPEL, duh.
Mr. Marc (AMGA guide)please tell me you are not the Marc who has been guiding folks illegally up that peak. It is a small community around here, word travels fast. Have you ever talked to the families around the peak for permission to climb, I know Pat has... |
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