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 ADVANCED
h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber Waves of Pain T 
Andrew T 
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 
Annie Oh! T 
Arrow T 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 
CCK Direct T 
Cold Turkeys T 
Diana T 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 
Erect Direction T 
Face to Face T 
Feast of Fools T 
Hans' Puss T 
Hawkeye T 
Jim's Gem T 
Keep on Struttin' T 
Last Will Be First, The T 
Limelight T 
Lost and Found T 
Man's Quest for Flight T 
Moby Dick T 
Modern Times T 
Moonlight T 
No Glow T 
Nurse's Aid T 
Proctor Silex T 
Proctoscope T 
Red Pillar T 
Silhouette T 
Smilin' the Hard Way T 
Steep Hikin' T 
Step Lively T 
Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Moby Dick 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1950s Hans Kraus and friends
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: Michael G on Aug 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Climber following Moby Dick.

Description 

This is a variation to Andrew's last pitch, off of the GT Ledge.

Starting just right of the major Twilight Zone corner, climb the easy face to a flaky right-facing corner to the overhang, then traverse right and up a groove to a ledge and left-facing flake. Take the flake to the overhang above, traverse left across a white face, and up into the V-notch (crux). Climb past the overhang to the top.

Rappel to climber's right over No Glow.

Location 

Same start as Andrew off of the GT Ledge.

Protection 

Save a medium to large cam to make the crux G.


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Wider view of the route
BETA PHOTO: Wider view of the route

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By JSH
Administrator
Aug 19, 2010

When I climbed this, the notch looked so much like V3 that I almost expected to climb it the same way. The holds through the notch are all like V3 ... but upside-down!

The rock just below the notch was a bit loose, if I recall.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2012

Wow, quite an exciting finish to Andrew! Traverse with teeny feet, get into the v-notch on crimpers, stem into the v-notch, and a big reach for this shorty. G-rate gear, though I did not see the pin in the v-notch.
By David Stowe
Jun 18, 2012

Really fun pitch. Not something that I would recommend as a finish to Andrew as it is significantly harder than that climb, but a very nice pitch to do when you are on GT over that way. I don't ever remember a pin in the the notch, but there are two lower down. That notch can be really tricky. 5.8 if done right, but can feel a bit harder if you're off a bit.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 17, 2013

Very nice worthwhile climb! Some lichen and loose rock but pro below the notch is solid.