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 ADVANCED
h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber Waves of Pain T 
Andrew T 
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 
Annie Oh! T 
Arrow T 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 
CCK Direct T 
Cold Turkeys T 
Diana T 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 
Erect Direction T 
Face to Face T 
Feast of Fools T 
Hans' Puss T 
Hawkeye T 
Jim's Gem T 
Keep on Struttin' T 
Last Will Be First, The T 
Limelight T 
Lost and Found T 
Man's Quest for Flight T 
Moby Dick T 
Modern Times T 
Moonlight T 
No Glow T 
Nurse's Aid T 
Proctor Silex T 
Proctoscope T 
Red Pillar T 
Silhouette T 
Smilin' the Hard Way T 
Steep Hikin' T 
Step Lively T 
Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Moby Dick 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1950s Hans Kraus and friends
Page Views: 1,091
Submitted By: Michael G on Aug 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Climber following Moby Dick.

Description 

This is a variation to Andrew's last pitch, off of the GT Ledge.

Starting just right of the major Twilight Zone corner, climb the easy face to a flaky right-facing corner to the overhang, then traverse right and up a groove to a ledge and left-facing flake. Take the flake to the overhang above, traverse left across a white face, and up into the V-notch (crux). Climb past the overhang to the top.

Rappel to climber's right over No Glow.

Location 

Same start as Andrew off of the GT Ledge.

Protection 

Save a medium to large cam to make the crux G.


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Wider view of the route
BETA PHOTO: Wider view of the route

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By JSH
Administrator
Aug 19, 2010

When I climbed this, the notch looked so much like V3 that I almost expected to climb it the same way. The holds through the notch are all like V3 ... but upside-down!

The rock just below the notch was a bit loose, if I recall.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2012

Wow, quite an exciting finish to Andrew! Traverse with teeny feet, get into the v-notch on crimpers, stem into the v-notch, and a big reach for this shorty. G-rate gear, though I did not see the pin in the v-notch.
By David Stowe
Jun 18, 2012

Really fun pitch. Not something that I would recommend as a finish to Andrew as it is significantly harder than that climb, but a very nice pitch to do when you are on GT over that way. I don't ever remember a pin in the the notch, but there are two lower down. That notch can be really tricky. 5.8 if done right, but can feel a bit harder if you're off a bit.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 17, 2013

Very nice worthwhile climb! Some lichen and loose rock but pro below the notch is solid.
By Kurtz
Nov 5, 2014

The P2 Andrew "gulley" is often wet. The holds on either side are pretty good so you can usually step across (L->R) avoiding the wet stuff. The rock above stays dry (where you cross back R->L).