A nice, tall formation with quality rock and routes. The largest stone in its grouping and very near the road.
Located just uphill (west) from the Ten Pins and on the south side of the road. Park either at the small pullout on the north side of the road immediately across the road from it, or up hill by Totem Pole or Phallus. The north side of the formation, the one facing the road, has a 1.5-2 foot deep, right-facing dihedral runing approximately 40 feet up its face.
3 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moby Dick:
Moby Dick Standard Routes 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Nantucket Sleighride 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Moby Dick
Nantucket Sleighride 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R SD : Custer State Park : ... : Moby Dick
This ultra-classic route starts in the shallow (1-2 foot deep, right-facing) dihedral, facing the road. It protects well, albeit somewhat strenuously at times, in the obvious placements. Several placements and sizes of small to medium gear are available. Make a committing, but not too difficult move up and out of the dihedral to the bolt. Shake out the legs and arms then run up the fun face past several bolts to the groove where you'll make about a 30 foot runout for the anchors while ponder...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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