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Moby Dick
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Moby Dick Standard Routes 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Rich F. on Jul 28, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the "Standard Routes" on Moby...

Description 

Climb ten feet up an easy face, then step across to the main rock. There are two cracks above as you step across. One directly above you and one to the left (see the picture). The only protection available at this point is to place a small stopper or tiny cam in seam above you. Then either make a delicate and long step to the left and go up the thinner left crack, or go straight up the wider crack above you. I went up the right crack (above the step across). It was more like a "face" climb in the crack rather than jamming -- but the crack was useful for setting protection.

Location 

From the road, hike to the LEFT uphill around Moby Dick -- go all the way around behind the rock and then keep going until you are on the back right side of the rock. On the back right, hike up a groove between Moby Dick and the rock immediately to the north of it, then drop your pack for the climb(s).

Protection 

A small stopper or tiny cam as you step across, then you can set a few cams in the cracks as you go up. I set a 0.3 cam at the step across, but would not have wanted to fall on it. Once you get up higher on the route it is easier to set protection (e.g., #1, #2 cams). I did not see any fixed gear, but there are anchors at the top (for Nantucket Sleighride).

Descent: Rappel 50 feet from the anchors back down to where you left your gear at the start of the standard route -- or you can alternately make a long 110 feet rappel down the face of Nantucket Sleighride towards the road. We did this with a 70M rope and had about eight feet to spare. If you don't have a 70M rope, you will need TWO ROPES for the long roadside rappel.


Photos of Moby Dick Standard Routes Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down to the base of the climb as my second prepares to follow.  Note the gap for the "step across" from the short easy face to the crack on the main rock.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down to the base of the climb as my second...

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