|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Bob Kamps, Frank Sacherer, 10/63.|
|Submitted By:||Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Moby Dick, Left||Add Comment|
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By Bryan G
Feb 14, 2011
This is one of those 5.9's that will feel hard even to the experienced 5.10 leader. The chimney has a mean lean to it which combined with the flare and polish all work to spit you out. It felt way harder and less secure than the 5.9 squeeze chimney atop Midterm.
The short second pitch is fun and worth doing. It can be linked with the first, although you will likely have substantial rope drag by the top.
The Reid guide has a reputation of sandbagging the gear recommendations on these wide climbs, but this is one where you really can leave the big cams on the ground. I dragged a #5 and #6 all the way to the top of this thing for no reason. Doubles to 4" is all you need to protect it.
From: San Jose
Jun 2, 2014
|stelar route, calories burner|