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Moby Dick (Direct Start) 
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Moby Dick (Direct Start) 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Marcus?
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: adampeters on Feb 5, 2009
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  • This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The direct start to Moby Dick is the logical line here. I chose to pretty much go straight up underneath the first bolt as opposed to the arching undercling/crack thing to the left. Start on good holds just right and move back left to gain the undercling and crimp rail just under the first bolt. Move up on sharp and small holds past the first bolt, then keep it together for the rest of this bueno route known as Moby Dick! Awesome freaking climbing!


    Location 

    This route is on the right side of the West Face.


    Protection 

    Bolts, 6 or so, plus anchors!!! Yeah for anchors in the Wichitas!!!



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