|The Tan Buttresses
This is a slightly wandering route with some fun, airy climbing.
1) Climb through some steep blocky terrain to a ramp system below the shallow, left-facing corner. Take the line of weakness towards the bottom of the corner. At the bottom of the corner, one can step left and follow flakes to the left of the corner until at the level of the roof that caps the corner. Once at the level of the roof, do an airy hand traverse back right to the top of the corner and follow the vertical crack that exits the roof to a grassy ledge. Step right and set up a belay below a large, left-facing corner and flake system. 5.10-, 140 feet.
2) Follow the flake and corner system to a ledge below a steep corner system and a splitter finger crack to the left of the corner. 5.8, 70 feet.
3) Climb the finger crack and follow it as it arches left around the corner. Once around the corner, follow the airy dihedral above to the large grassy ledge. 5.10+, 100 feet.
4) and 5) Either follow Noth'N But a Good Time or the Anniversary Route to the top.
Start about 30 feet right of Noth'N But a Good Time below a shallow, left-facing corner.
Standard rack to #3 Camalot.
|Comments on MOAC Memorial Route
|By doug haller|
Aug 3, 2012
Descent route for the Tan Buttress:
Locating the start - Make sure you are standing along the wall where it is undercut by erosion.
Probably a good route to use double ropes on to limit rope drag. With one rope, we had drag.
P1 still has a little loose rock - gravel size and a few large holds.
P2 step right and ascend despite the nice look of going directly upward.
P3 looks like there are two exits to the airy dihedral, the route takes the left-hand version through bright orange lichen covered rock
Be solid at the grade.