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The Tan Buttresses
Routes Sorted
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Anniversary Route T 
Astro Goat T 
Black and Tan Towers, The T 
Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 
Dog Fight T 
Fallen Angel T 
Gimp Route, The T 
Goat Food T 
Hard to Say T 
Hoag-Fisher T 
Lazy Sunday Route T 
MOAC Memorial Route T 
Musafar's Home Cookin' T 
Noth'N But a Good Time T 
Pin Route T 
Space Miser T 
Work-Life Balance T 

MOAC Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: H. King, B. Collett., June 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jun 22, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The MOAC Memorial Route is in blue with the Annive...

Description 

This is a slightly wandering route with some fun, airy climbing.

1) Climb through some steep blocky terrain to a ramp system below the shallow, left-facing corner. Take the line of weakness towards the bottom of the corner. At the bottom of the corner, one can step left and follow flakes to the left of the corner until at the level of the roof that caps the corner. Once at the level of the roof, do an airy hand traverse back right to the top of the corner and follow the vertical crack that exits the roof to a grassy ledge. Step right and set up a belay below a large, left-facing corner and flake system. 5.10-, 140 feet.

2) Follow the flake and corner system to a ledge below a steep corner system and a splitter finger crack to the left of the corner. 5.8, 70 feet.

3) Climb the finger crack and follow it as it arches left around the corner. Once around the corner, follow the airy dihedral above to the large grassy ledge. 5.10+, 100 feet.

4) and 5) Either follow Noth'N But a Good Time or the Anniversary Route to the top.


Location 

Start about 30 feet right of Noth'N But a Good Time below a shallow, left-facing corner.


Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.



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By doug haller
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 3, 2012

Descent route for the Tan Buttress:
Locating the start - Make sure you are standing along the wall where it is undercut by erosion.
Probably a good route to use double ropes on to limit rope drag. With one rope, we had drag.
P1 still has a little loose rock - gravel size and a few large holds.
P2 step right and ascend despite the nice look of going directly upward.
P3 looks like there are two exits to the airy dihedral, the route takes the left-hand version through bright orange lichen covered rock
Be solid at the grade.