This route is awesome. It is kinda like Dolofright's big brother (although it is probably quite a bit safer) -- another amazing find by Tom Gilje. It ascends the north face of Disappearing Angel (good for hotter temps) in two pitches... a little bit of crack climbing leads to some pretty rad face climbing.P1: Climb the gradually widening crack to where it ends, clip a bolt, and pull a burly hand traverse straight left for 15 feet (crux!). The falls are wild and scary, but clean. At the end ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Super Chimney is the big flake visible to the left (east & higher) than the Moab Rim Tower. (About half an hour up the Moab Rim Jeep Trail, chimney feature, on the uphill side). One set of cams gets you through, and a few draws for the pins higher up. Paul R. and Jimmie D. established this gem initiall as A2 and most of the same 5.10. After a superfun TR, Jimmie, Hellen and Billy R. removed the extra pitons and this now leads as one of the best single pitches on the river! Belay at the top. Pretty exciting at the top, but probably not R.